I wish JW still had that video on his site that had you looking right down the carb while it was making a run on the dyno. That was Awsome and lets you see how the double pumper works and when you see those 4 bbls shoot that gas in and that engine starts to groan you see those venturies spray like mad. Maybe we will get lucky and some one will post it.
I'll be back later to tell you what is going to happen when you get that dbl pumper after work later.
The 3 series gears will not work in your carrier unless you add a spacer ring which you can buy from summit. I built my 350, cam,heads, intake, custom pistons, JW converter, all the good stuff. Totally different animal. I went from the peg leg 2.56 rears to a posi 2.93 that I found on here for sale. I do a lot of highway driving, long distance with my car so I didn’t want to go too steep. The car runs great and will break the tires loose whenever I want but if I were to do it again I think I would go a bit lower in gearing. I feel like I’m not getting the most out of my investment.
You are making every mistake in the book The 1968- 1970 Buick 8.2 10 bolt is NOT the same as the 64-67 BOP 8.2 10 bolt. When you see ring and pinion and posi carriers for the GM 8.2 in OPG, Sumitt, Jegs, whatever, they are for the 64-67 BOP 8.2. Those parts will not fit the 1970 Buick 8.2 10 bolt. The only new ring and pinion gears are reproduced by Fabcraft, and they are between runs the last I heard. They only made the 3.42 and 3.64 gear sets. There is also a Posi that is specific to the 68-70 Buick 8.2. Not sure of the availability of those. Auburn may have a Posi as well. All of these parts are more expensive because the market just isn't there. https://fabcraftmetalworks.com/product/rear-axlerab4-08342/ https://fabcraftmetalworks.com/product/rear-axlerab4-08364/ https://fabcraftmetalworks.com/product/rear-axlerab5-0470/
Guy, you got lucky Time to go play the lottery. The NY Mega Millions Jackpot currently stands at 1 BILLION dollars I got my ticket, drawing tonight.
In some cases. It depends on the rear. Carrier breaks are different depending on what rear you are talking about.
If you have access to a chevelle parts car, the rear end will direct swap and then get Chevy parts. It is a cheap way to go.
What other rears are a direct swap? We are a car family. My brother and uncle have dozens of cars. 2nd and 3rd gen Camaros and a few others.
The avs I'm running now is probably pretty similar to the function of a quadra jet. Mechanical secondary with an adjustable air valve spring. It does great once I get past the the initial bog. I have the stiffest accelerator pump spring and biggest nozzle. The difference in performance was extremely noticeable but no where close to where I want to be. Edelbrock needs a nozzle for the secondaries.
Any 64-72 A body (Chevelle, Skylark, Cutlass, Lemans) rear will swap with some possible minor differences in overall width, and length of driveshaft requirements. A Chevy 12 bolt will require a conversion U-joint.
Have you tried raising float slightly and tightening air valve on secondary? as far as rear end swaps, it depends on year. As 71 gm started using the 8.5 which is the current rear end for light trucks and was used in most cars with rear drive into the 80s and 90s. the only 8.5 that’s a direct swap is cutlass skylark 71-72. And still requires a shorter driveshaft. But parts are common. But any abody 1968-72 will swap in . LeMans, cutlass, el Camino, Monte Carlo To 72 I think? I’m gonna suggest the chevelle rear, at least you know what you have, if you get it cheap.
Explain a little more. How do I change the first gear? I'm starting to believe my transmission is completely wrong for my new engine. If I hammer it from a dead stop I get my initial bog (carb/gears) but then it takes off really good pedal to the metal up to about 90 miles per hour this happens FAST its sweet but then it up shifts and it drops me out of the Power Band and I'm done! I cannot keep going. It would take over a mile to break 100mph. How do I change shift points?
Float is set perfect. I screwed with it for 20 minutes getting it right at that 15/16 to 1" drop that they recommend. I've considered a needle and seat upgrade but I'm fed up already. I tightened the air door beyond factory recommendations and seen minor improvements. The fact that I am running this carb 3 stages rich and not getting color on the plugs tells me it's way off still. Wish I had an air fuel meter. Gonna get one eventually but that setup will be half the price of my double pumper. I think the double pumper will be a better choice. I have 4 kids and should get a huge tax return lol. I'll get all the goodies then.
The 2.75 gears are changed internally, with an entire planetary set. But from what your saying that third falls on its face at 90 ? im thinking cluch slip or sprag( I thought sprag was second gear thou) . So trans may need to be rebuilt. And this kit can be installed. It’s not cheap but this is the best price I have seen https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...3MK-JW5XiJ9IWxSX385xjqdghU-5j7kkaAiVNEALw_wcB It will not change second or third just first. These are the same ratios as the 2004r Just no overdrive. And a slightly stronger transmission. Add a converter. Should give much more lower or off the line. And I think it will improve top end only going by your description of it falls from power band and it’s done. Thinking a rebuild is in order. as far as float level , push it to that limit . Might take a tad more bog out.
2nd gear takes me to 90 mph. The shift to 3rd is where i lose it all. Would a performance 200r4 make a world of difference? I'm pretty sure I'm done with carb. Check my plug pics^. I thrown around the idea of going back to stock jetting and then seeing how it runs just with the bigger pump shot. But I feel like I'm running too lean already.
