Put led lamps in, all works/looks good. but now my “brake” light is dimly lit Something simple I’m sure.
Had that happen on my '68 when I put LED bulbs in the dash. Figured it has something to do with the variable voltage for the "high/low" illumination for the Parking Brake/pressure switch, I believe there is very low voltage on the circuit for the pressure switch, and may be enough to illuminate the LED, I put the incandescent back in. (I did not feel like playing "chase the electrons") One peanut bulb is not gonna suck all the juice outta my battery, and I am pretty sure the 140 amp alternator will keep up. It might run a thousand degrees hotter, but I'll just drive faster to keep good airflow.
OK. I read this and thought he meant he put LEDs in the dash. "Put led lamps in, all works/looks good. but now my “brake” light is dimly lit" Just in case anyone has a similar problem. In my '68, I did have trouble for a while getting my valve to stay centered. It would flicker and come on while driving, but as soon as I lightly touched the pedal, it would go out. If I stepped hard, it would come on. I did bleed several times (using the centering tool), and finally bought "Russell check ball bleeder screws" and bled it again, still did it, and then after about 2 weeks if driving, it stopped. (I did meter the pressure switch and also checked the Parking brake switch and they do work, so I am not sure what it was, maybe enough air that finally moved out of the valve/body). But the LED install was after all of that (and I though the problem "came back"), changed the bulb and it was fine again.
Yes, Larry is correct, incandescent bulbs are still in the “indicator “ positions, I may have jostled something when I lowered the column to pull the cluster forward, damn I HATE the thought of having to remove dash pad, cluster and appendages, old plastic is only tolerant for so long
Then, remove the lower dash plate, and drop the column down. Play with the wiring and see if you can spot the problem.
Yep, gonna try the simple stuff first. Just put gas in it and took it around for a drive, all functions normal, so its something simple
Yep, simple. Like those led's not being totally compatible in our old bucket of bolts 50 yr old cars.
Ah hell you dont need that light, you will know if you have a brake issue, do you really need a light to tell you.......lol
I hope this isn't too dumb or off the charts relative to this thread but earlier this year when I switched my park lights and front turn signals to utilize the same LED bulb [double filament version] I had problems. American Autowire tech support suggested I change to an LED Flasher Can that will operate with both LED and incandescent bulbs [PN 510226]. I did and the problem went away. I was using their wiring harness for the whole build. This was on my '46 chevy truck [with Buick 350 v8 and matching TH400]. The old [and I mean old] taillights that I completely rebuilt from the inside out stayed incandescent. I wanted to keep and use the old taillights and was unaware of the two bulb types being incompatible with some flasher cans. The reason for doubling up the park light and front blinker is that the headlight buckets on a '46 have only the park lights ...... as a turn signal in those days would have been an add-on to the top of the fat fender.
We’ll you we’re pretty much correct, I removed the left cluster and removed the socket for the “BRAKE” light, WTH, I put an LED in there I did not remove the clusters when I put the LED’s in, and for some reason, being there’s 3 gauges in the left cluster, I put 3 LEDs in Put a regular bulb back In and my GS runs 12.40 now It’s weird tho, where was the LED getting its current from to illuminate????
It doesn't take much current to illuminate an LED. It probably back fed from somewhere. Sought of like the MSD run on that is solved with a diode. Current back feeds through the regulator and GEN light and keeps the MSD box energized on. Again, it doesn't take much current to keep the MSD box on.