I am getting around to installing a posi in a 1965 Skylark. I have a 66 GS posi complete ready to go but the yoke had a crack on the side of it where the U bolts go. I used a puller took the old yoke off, installed a new pinion seal and a different yoke. My question is how tight do I make the nut in the center of the yoke is there a torque spec for this ? I dont want to get it wrong and crush the collar any more then it already was possibly changing the pattern on the ring gear. Thanks in advance
Yep, Well the proper way is to always replace the crush sleeve. SO back yard here we go. Some count the thread that were left and go by that...What I do is tight the nut by hand with a 1/2 ratchet and hold the yoke with something else like a pipe wrench and a rag not to mar it up then just tighten it till you can not anymore. ALWAYS use lock tight and stake / punch the nut in a couple spots to prevent nut from backing off. I would normally use a air gun ....but some people can not feel tightness I have 30 + years of torquing these nuts and doing rear end work so I rely on that confidence. I am sure there will be others to chime in and help. STAKING the nut is always the best way to prevent failure on this seal / yoke replacement job. Jim JD Race
As long as you do not go nuts with the torque you will be fine. I doubt most of us have the strength to crush a crush sleeve with a hand tool and no extension bar. So really as long as the crush sleeve was done correct before you removed it will be fine again when you reinstall the nut...BUT AGAIN I tell you the failure is trying to get the nut to stay put. When you torque the Motor the torque goes the same direction as tighten the nut and that is how it backs off. THAT is why lock tight and the staking of the nut with a punch are so important. Normally the high amount of torque it take to crush the sleeve is what keeps the nut in place. Hope this helps you understand why your doing what your doing. JIm
Think of it as tightening a jamb nut. As Jim stated, you just want to take out any lash, and have the nut tight enough to not allow any movement, and the Loctite and staking keeps it seated. (You likely won't exceed 70 ft lbs by hand even if you go-rilla it with a 1/2 inch ratchet) The only thing you risk crushing is your fingers, so, pull, don't push.
Update , Felt great smooth spin and no in and out play. Installed and it seems to be working great ! Quiet and smooth. I was fortunate to purchase the rear and the matching Borg 4 speed in Auburn NY it was from a green 66 convertible GS. There were some posts about the car here on the forum but I do not know if the owner was Bob. I purchased the parts from a new friend Mark.
That's whose car it was. I also know why the rear was originally removed. I know some history on the car itself & the prior owner. IF I remember correctly his forum name on V8 was 66GSCONV. You could do a search to find the reason for the yoke failure. One former perspective owner was in Mass. as that is where the vehicle originated from. Tom T.