The Stick cars stay Stick cars!!! In other forms of racing if a car is a stick it is thought to be a uncompetitive dud. The manual trans comes out with ideas of "winning",and I guess if you were neck and neck with a guy showing up for the next round with a auto improves your chances of beating him.In my opinion when you sell out you sell yourself short. Now you have a pretty uneventful ride that is "easy" AND you still aren't "winning" per say. Don't get me wrong, nothing wrong with a automatic car. Probably more than half my cars are automatic, but I just can't see taking the "fun" out of the stick cars for the so called "edge". The PURE STOCK DRAGS is loaded with Gear Bangers and I love it. My hat is off to all my fellow gear bangers!!!
I couldn;t agree with you more:throw the sound of a quadrajet in there,and we got ourselves an auto-mobile race mother _ _ _.Oh no, the two lane blacktop flashbacks again.Need to get back to work on my 68 purestocker 396 nova again.chris
:ball: :ball: :3gears: Yah who would ever change a stick to an auto?? Soon -- soon my pretty will be whole again -soon....
at least you have an excuse....... if I dropped 300 pounds on my man pedal appendage.. I'd be running a vag-o-matic too..........
Its fun with 3 pedals unless this happens. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tDbrvUtNJfU or this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aSAuf8mE_k4
i'M a walkin! A little limpy but walkin. I can stand and walk about 2 hours at a time now. Little more each day try to walk about 1/2 mile a day (1/4 mile to my stand 1/4 back )
At the first formal drag race I attended (summer of 1957 at an old airport in Gilbertsville, Ky.), a 57 Chev had a clutch explode and sections of the flywheel went sailing into the parking lot. When they jacked it up in the pits, the transmission fell out onto the ground. Guy was fine.....lucky... Here's the bell housing on my Ramrod when we snapped the driveshaft in half the first year running Pure Stock. It stayed in place, engine was fine. When you pushed in the clutch, the transmission moved back and forth. Found that out trying to back it into my garage to pull the motor....didn't disengage, flattened a section of the RH 1/4 panel on the door jam.
Wow, looks like when the bell housing broke it blew the cylinder head right off. Dave, you wouldn't have this kind of problem if you'd just install a torque converter and focus your attention on your right foot where it belongs. :3gears:
Hmmm I have seen that view before was laying on my back under Daves Olds LOL .. Trust me I have busted many a Trans ,twisted (snowconed) a drive shaft . busted ears off the rear end, Ripped clutches in half.. All that weight take its toll on the drivetrain.. Honestly I should have a lakewood steel bell housing just can`t afford it .. Paul
I put a Lakewood on it after this and also a chrome moly driveshaft the size of a telephone pole. That was the first time a head had been off that engine. Tops of most of the pistons showed evidence of valve float. Upon further tear down, found numerous pieces of piston skirts in the oil pan. Decided then it might be a good idea to go through the whole thing. I couldn't believe how quickly you and Donny swapped those transmissions. Need to do that again as I just got the original Muncie rebuilt....again. Has a Super T10 in it right now.
Sounds like Dave H has a new pick-up line if he ever wants to hit on the Edmore Potato Queen: "Hi, I've got.... :laugh:
WOW! I have heard stories - about what happens when flywheels explode. (I know nothing of the Potato Queen!) Because of being short of funds I decided that safety was more important than bodywork. I have invested in: Billet steel flywheel Lakewood Bellhousing Special order Centerforce dual-friction clutch - one of the few that are still a diaphram type but also SFI approved. I also bought an adjustable clutch pivot ball, new fork, fork seal, etc. One can always paint the bellhousing the factory color - I would strongly recommend a blow-resistant (is anything -proof?) bellhousing!
