Back in the day... So the radiator is 56 years old? 56 years of crud in there>>>>>> pull the radiator, take it to a shop, and have it cleaned. They will pull a tank and run a rod through the tubes to get all the cr&p out. Then its reassembled and "like new". IF you can find a radiator shop...
I had a rad shop make mine a 3 core, 15 years ago and they even had some original Harrison tanks laying around. No heating issues since unless I am sitting in traffic for extended periods of time.
The heater core shouldn't have significant impact on engine cooling. In the summer, when you have the heat off, the coolant isn't even flowing through there. If the system is working well, engine stays cool. His point is still good, because older Brass/copper radiators do get plugged due to electrolysis and solder bloom. I paid to have mine disassembled rodded out and put back together. Made a huge difference.
So, aluminum radiators are a plus-up over brass/copper units, yes? Kind of like aluminum heads of the stock cast iron heads.
Yes. They reject heat at a much greater rate, and the tubes are larger diameter so they flow faster. The greatest heat rejections occurs when the coolant is hottest and the air is coolest, so the first part of the travel through the radiator. The faster the flow, the faster the greater amount of heat is shed. (not the incorrect belief that the longer the coolant stays in the radiator, the better the cooling). Things you learn about thermodynamics, saturation latent heat, subcooling, superheat and sensible heat when dealing with aircraft systems. (hydraulic/fuel heat exchangers and stuff), and HVAC-R.
Actually what Michael says is true, but simplified. There is a point where faster flow doesn't equal better cooling, but that isn't the case in our cars.
Disagree - copper/brass will reject heat better. Copper's heat conductivity is far superior to that of aluminum. The solider, however, does not. Aluminium radiators need to be made correctly, as you stated, with larger tubes. The 1-inch-wide tubes in aluminium radiators increase tube-to-fin contact and cooling capacity by roughly 25 percent over a copper/brass radiator, not so much the flow. Aluminium is stronger and lighter which allows the bigger tubes. Griffin claims that a two-row aluminum radiator with 1-inch tubes will cool as well as a five-row copper-brass radiator with 11/42-inch tubes. Also, the two-row design allows less restricted airflow through the core. More air equals more cooling.
Did you mean 11/32? Love your description of the radiator design and process. Always wondered the thermo differents between the two different metals. Question- As for the soldering process, I've done a lot with brass and copper. What type of solder is used for aluminum? I have seen aluminum rods used to solder aluminum with a torch, but this process takes a lot of skill to do it right. I saw an expert welder solder two aluminum coke cans together. I was never able to master that skill.
They are brazed in a furnace. Very narrow temp range (+- 5 deg). Assembled, fluxed and then heated to melt point, (two grades of aluminum alloy) and the tubes and headers "weld". Trying to repair is pretty specialized skill.
One of the big benefits of an all aluminum radiator in my opinion is the fact there is no galvanic reaction setup. Since it's all aluminum, and welded with aluminum, it should last a good long time. Also due to the larger tubing and faster flow, they cool better.
Where I worked, we didn't have furnace brazing. Everything was by hand. We were a one of a kind builder, no production. Loved that kind of work and the work environment too.
Great reasons why aluminum radiators are the best, but on the pricey side. Worked to cure my high water temperature issue.
I meant heater core. Mine was clogged enough to turn the headers red. Bypassing the heater core solved the issue.
Actually non a/c cars have full time flow through the heater core. A/c cars have a valve that stop the flow through the heater core when the a/c is in use.
Does the 1970 GS 455 Skylark A/C have this valve to stop the flow through the heater core? Does this apply to aftermarket A/C compressors? Vet
Yes for OEM/factory A/C. If the aftermarket A/C does not share the same heater box/plenum for cooling air, then it likely would not be installed. The factory A/C and Heater box is a common box/plenum.
