I need Battery Cables for a 70 GS

The car currently has 'bolt in' style cables which I believe was not correct until later years.

Im due for a battery soon and would like a correct battery with posts.
So im going to need new +ve and -ve cables

Any opinions on who makes a good set?
M&H doesn't list any.
American Autowire only lists for a 350 but I assume they'd be the same.

Also, the wire block thats on the car, can I thread a new cable though this or do I need the cable made with this on it?

 

American Autowire (AA) is the only game in town. As far as I know they are the only ones making harnesses, all the others are re-sellers. Lectric-Limited makes some 'vette harnesses, and modifies some others they get from AA. I bought new cables not long ago from AA for my 70 455 and they fit fine. No block on the (+). I have an NOS GS455 Spring ring cable with the block if you are interested...210. shipped, that's less than I paid.

 

OK ill check with American Autowire
I dont need NOS, thanks though

 

I am interested in the NOS battery cable.

 

By the way, 455 and 350 cables are not the same. 455 was a thicker gauge wire and has different part # stamped on it.

 

Now that I'm thinking about it...I think I got the (+) cable from Y1, because I needed something else from them at the time. It is an AA made cable, Y1 site shows it as L13300 ( I think that's the same number as AA) for 69 GS400 + 70-71 GS455. I know the other cables + spark plug wires I bought for my 2 GS came direct from AA. A 1970 GS 350 or Skylark 350 is a different # (+) cable. That cable is probably a smaller gauge wire. AA is pretty good about their repros, they are not perfect...but pretty good. The + starter term is a little different, and the insulation is thicker than original. You will have to drill or slot your insulating block. Korrie...I'll PM you........

 

So if I buy a new cable I won't be able to get it through the block on the bottom of the motor? I assumed it had a slit in it to press the cable through.

I can probably cut a slit in it.. Can I get it off the car without removing the motor? I can't recall from memory exactly where it sits.

I put a new M&H engine harness on and it was really nice. I didn't try to put it through that block by the starter as at the time I didn't know it was supposed to go through it.

 

I'm not too concerned with originality of post connectors but would like a post battery. The bolt connectors are ok with me. Would these be ok? http://www.ebay.com/itm/261569360055

 

M&H electrical contractors made the whole harness for my 72 and they sold me the correct side mount battery cables. ( witch may be manufactured by someone else) I know they have 70 battery cables that are correct.

 

Sounds like correct 70 cable connectors are not durable? Should I just go with a bolt/post type?

 

Curtis.

The cable block can be removed with the motor in the car. There is a stamped sheet metal shield into which the block fits. It is retained by 2 small bolts, one at each end.

There are lots of guys using these, but I can't speak to durability. If you are not concerned with originality, you might consider marine cables and terminals. Both ends of marine cables terminate identically, and are retained at the battery by large wing nuts. These have proven very durable on my car for many years. (But I am thinking of reverting back to spring ring cables).

http://www.amazon.com/Shoreline-Marine-Battery-Terminal-Black/dp/B004LR5K30

 

There is absolutely nothing wrong with repro Spring-ring cables. I've had them on my 442 for about 14 years, they have been on + off over a hundred times. I actually really like them, 'cuz if I'm not going to drive the car for a few weeks, I can disconnect them in 2 minutes. The original Spring-ring cables the terminals had a steel core, that repros don't have. It is possible to overstretch the repros, because battery terminals now are often bigger. When you install them, there is a tool you can get anywhere that "shaves" the terminals, it's like a 5-8. tool, or you can sand or file. You might not have to do that. Like Jim said, the block slides out of the sleeve. The harness goes in a slot in the block, that's easy. The cable goes thru the block, you will have to slot or cut it to get the new cable in (because the starter terminal won't fit thru the block). You might be able to pull the old cable out of the block. The new cable is larger, so you need to ream or drill the block. This is all much easier than it sounds if you have a Dremel. The cables on ebay you are looking at...you can't tell if the cables are both black, both red, or one of each. You can only see the plastic insulation boots. Your car is nice, 2 black cables would look goofy.

 

The repros are very durable and tough. I have cut out the bottom of the plastic block and popped the cable in. A bit of work however.

 

Exactly correct . M & H will install the block on the + AA cable though .
Sad day when Rockauto was pulled as a vendor. Guess someone didnt like their discount prices .

DL

 

$44 for each cable at M&H and American Auto Wire.

M&H charges $75 to drill out the plastic block and $35 to install it - If I mail them my block.
I think I can figure out a way to get a new one in there myself for that price.

American Autowire has a picture of the negative. Ive never seen a clip like that.



Or, would these better? (remember Im not concerned with originally too much, would just like a good working cable)

 

455 battery cables were much thicker then their 350 cousins. Just make sure to buy the thicker cables.
Duane

 

I remove my old cable no $75 charge, they have done Many for me.
FREE shoes and FREE 4 speed, you can splurge on a battery cable LOL :laugh::Smarty:ou:

DL

 

M & H does not show 1972 cables but I called them and they make them. They also said to send the block without the wire in it and they will put the block back onto the cable. So give them a call, I am sure they can make the correct cable for 1970. You just got to ask.