FI Tech "Go EFI 4" Self Tuning Throttle Body Injection Install Thread

Ken you're correct on my background. I have worked for large, well known companies since 1973 which involved low voltage, very high current applications.

However I was referring to my experiences with high horsepower cars and hydroplanes.
1300-1400 HP hydroplanes operating between 5000 to 8000 rpm will test the endurance of every mechanical and electrical part on board including screws and bolts.

I have spent a lot of time installing full systems for multi stage nitrous as well as twin turbo race cars which have their specific problems.

By far the least favorite job is when I get called to redo someone's street/strip car that has a "Rats Nest" wiring job.
The cars are either having intermittent electrical problems, blown fuses or smoke along with that great smell a burnt insulation.

It is important to get a good crimp on the cable connector that maximizes the connector to wire surface contact area.
I prefer to use a crimper that makes a dimple.
If done properly there is no need for solder and if you need to protect the connector from weather then use the adhesive shrink tube.
Of coarse if you have a good crimp you can still solder without worry about heat under large current loads.

I made my own crimping tools for cables 8 gage and up by making a round notch in a thick piece of steel for each size connector and custom grinding various size chisels as blunt nose dimple punches.
Works far better than most crimping tools for large gage connectors and the appearance of the crimp is great. "Just like downtown"

If you want a really tight crimp, you will find that the connector size is oversize for the wire it is specified to fit.
I usually use one size connector down from the wire size.
Example: A connector for a 8 gage cable will fit snugly on a 6 gage cable.

The problem with butt connectors for large gage wire is that they can have less copper CSA than the wire and will generate heat in the area between the ends of the wire where the connector alone is carrying the current.
My friend's 900 hp 69 Camaro had 2 batteries in the back and the 10 gage cable from the alternator had a butt connector covered with shrink tube.
He never had a problem until he let the batteries run low and the alternator had to run a heavy charge. I get a call about smelling burnt insulation.
The butt connector was melting the heat shrink tubing so I replaced the cable with a one piece 6 gage.
If you must do a large gage butt connection you may need to get creative by using a copper tube that has thick walls. Think plumbing supplies.

I use non insulted small gage connectors. The plastic covers won't let you get the best crimp or let you visually inspect the crimp.
Heat shrink tube is used to cover the bare connector end.

Paul

 

Thanks Paul :TU:

 

OK, I think that the method I use to join wires is ok. I use high quality butt connectors from MAD electric. They are uninsulated high quality. Also use professional grade crimpers and tiny bit of solder if the wires are out of the car. Then finish with marine grade heat shrink. Does this sound OK?

 

MAD uses tinned connectors so if you heat the connector and add a little solder, it will actually let the copper wire get closer to the copper base metal of the connector.
The marine grade heat shrink will definitely keep moisture away from the connection.
Sounds good to me.

The only time a but connector gets hot is when the current limit of the wire is being pushed.
If a person goes overkill on the wire gage then the larger butt connector being used on the larger wire should be fine.

 

Summit did not lie to me. System showed up today!

 

I've been using these for about 20 years in Hi powered (1+KW) applications for competition R/C hobby purposes. I've also used a considerable amount of them in BigRed over the years including my fuel system, radio, and dash mods, and even fixing the main power window feed to the drivers door. Also used them to wire the E-fan and relays in SportWagon. Crimper is a must. I use the 15-45a housings .. mostly the 30a pins. the 45a pins need the tangs bent over before use in the crimper.

.. Some of my server UPS's use the larger 75 and 120 housings. BTW, their Amp rating is based on 110v ..



https://powerwerx.com/anderson-power-powerpole-sb-connectors

 

A little earlier we were wondering about the CFM of the FiTech throttle body. I put the calipers on my 1200 and the bore size is the same as a Holley 1050 (1 11/16) So they must use a very conservative rating system.

 

Hard data! :TU:

 

Have almost everything done. Gas gauge not working, will put that off for now, and have to unwrap the header wrap to find O2 sensor port. Should be able to fire it up. one major problem for me is the hood will no longer fit. The FiTech TBI unit is wider than a carb and my old carb hat will not work. There is so little room above the motor as is so ordered a fiberglass hood.

Was surprised that the EFI-8 model does not have dual fan controls. This is supposed to be the premier system and it does have the second control wire in the harness. Only two models have this control. Seems a bit strange to me that since the wiring is there that this control is not available. CORRECTION! The second fan does work just have to go to power adder accessories menu. Thanks Kirk at FiTech.

 

That is very interesting. uzzled:

 

Do you think the Robb Mc is a suitable alternative to the FCC? Isn't it the same concept? I have a fairly stock 400ish HP 455.

 

Yes. Call RobbMC. The guy I talked to there actually runs a FI Tech TB and powersurge unit.

 

Robb used to be a member here. He makes good stuff at a great price. No hype, just things that work.

 

Car is running with the TBI now. Have to work a little more on plumbing. Not a lot of use working on tune without boost. I think it would work better with less initial timing. Right now it is set at 22* initial. With fuel injection I do not think you need that much timing for idle. Here is a picture of work on tubing with the new hat.

 

Sweet. Look forward to hearing how it runs with the boost.

 

First drive yesterday. Just wanted to get it out and get some easy miles on it and let it learn a bit. First impression is throttle response is something special. Quarter throttle has real snap to it. Had a little rain on the way home and fortunately it is also very controllable as a little too much throttle was like driving on ice. Some of the intake tubing is really cobbled together now. Have a few new pieces of tubing coming to clean up under the hood.

I called FiTech yesterday because I could not figure out how to get the power adder specific items. Well it seems that I did not get the right controller for my EFI 8. They are supposed to send me a software update to fix it.

Will get some pictures and video to share next week.

 

Thanks for the update. I'm soooo tempted to grab one of these...

 

Finally back to the car. Taking a break from residing the house.

FiTech sent me the files and instructions for upgrading my controller. Took about 15 minutes. I now have the files for all of the FiTech units. Now I can tune for boost. I want to be a little richer than what they suggest.

I also have to say that tech support has been very good so far. Phone calls have been answered or returned promptly. Emails have been followed up.

Best impression so far is throttle response. Really the best the car has ever been. It is also fun to just hit the starter and it just starts. No having to play with the throttle, it just runs instantly.

Hope to have some impressions on what it is like with boost. Good bye tires.

 

Fitech is about 6 to 8 weeks behind on delivery. I ordered mine nearly a month ago and was told it should ship on 6/15 so i started in on getting the plumbing ready. I got an email today that says 7/12 for the new ship date. Maybe i'll put the carb back on so i don't blow the short summer waiting.

 

been following this thread, I also installed the fitech on my car but on the other end of the power spectrum , 340 mildly built I would say about 350hp.
installed it with the fcc.
first the fcc was running hot while idling I mean you could burn your hand on it , called tech and they had me lower the percent of duty at idle and that worked
second had throttle was hanging up after a full throttle run, turned out to be the rear throttle plates were loose
third the rear throttle plates weren't in step with the front I adjusted them myself
forth and on going when I mash the throttle I still experience a delay ????
so far I think my cheap summit carb made more power I could roast the tires off still trying to work out the bugs with this ongoing issue
as an earlier poster stated I think there wasn't enough testing with the unit ? when you call tech support they keep trying to push an issue with your car not thier product
I thought my cleaning the carb every year and dealing with the white crap in the bowl from sitting was over ..I might go back