im thinking of putting in a 107 cam from poston, ive had a guy tell me i need a a 3000 stall converter and another tell me that a 2300-2500 should work fine. Im running a TH350 in my 455 '71 skylark with non-posi stock gears (originally had a 6 cyl.) heres the poston summary of the cam: 455-430-400 GS Series Camshafts Sounds like the baddest cam on the street. The short lift (.473) and long duration produces an ultrawild "Window Rattling" lope. Gives .4 and 4 MPH and 45 horsepower over stock cam. any knowledge would be appreciated, thanks guys!
The power range of that cam is 3300-6000 RPM. You need a 3500 stall converter and 3.50 or higher numerical gears out back.
We need a lot more info from you before jumping to conclusions. What else has been done to the engine (compression, heads, intake, exhaust, etc.)? What's the rear axle gear ratio going to be? Most importantly, what do you want to do with the car? Street only, street/strip, dragstrip only? Devon
thanks guys, it will mostly be a street car with limited race appearances. It has a stock '72 455 short blk with 430 heads, mildly shaved heads, (9:1 c/r?), 5 angle valve grind, new valve guides/seals, adj. push rods, gasket matched intake/exhaust, mildly p&p, 800cfm Q-jet, new full dual "Rush" exhaust, stock manifolds, TH350, HEI dizzy, high-volume oil pump, im not sure of the gear ratio it has??? It has original '71 V6 gears, anyone know? I couldnt find the cam specs on postons site, anyone have a link? I priced out a 3000 stall converter, which was $500, but even that wouldnt work for this 107 cam? The summary of that cam sounds awesome and ive had a buddy use it in his race car before with a 3000 stall conv. and he said it worked great! I also priced out a 2300-2500 stall converter for $300...is there an awesome cam that would work with that? poston or TA? thanks guys, sry for the noob Q's, just starting to get into the buick scene.
With all that overlap, 10 or 10.5:1 compression would help the streetability and you'd still be able to putz around on pump gas.
im not sure about the c/r on this engine, id imagine its somewhere around 9:1...?? i also run 94 octane.
Noob, If you could, fill out your profile and signature so that we know your first name and where you live, that would be great. It's nicer to address someone by their first name, and if you post your locality, there might be someone close by that could help. This is really important when looking for parts or other assistance. The Poston 107 is a big cam for a mostly street driven vehicle. The specs are 244* intake duration, 266* exhaust duration both at .050. Valve lift is .474 with 1.6 rockers, 107* LSA, and it has 41* of overlap. It should make awesome power if you match the rest of your drive train to it. That means a good 3500 converter and 3.73 gears. I would think you would want more compression with that cam. Bigger is not always better, especially for the street. I think you would be happier with something smaller. Take a look at the cams that TA Performance offers at www.taperformance.com. I would think something like the TA288-94H would be better for you. It has 230/240*, 114 LSA, and .504 lift with 1.6 rockers. If you like Postons cams, the 113 or 113A are great street cams. As far as gears go, find the axle code on the passenger side axle tube. The 6 cylinders most commonly got 3.08's in 1972. The code would be LAB for peg leg, LSB for Posi. Good luck
ou: ou: ou: Does your car still have stock exaust manifolds? If so you will kill the powerband of your engine with the 107 cam!! This cam is not street friendly, and needs at least 10.0 to 1 compression and a set of headers !! I can garentee that you will slow down your car by installing this cam!! All the cams in the Poston list are just poor copys of Kennebell's 20 year old camshafts!! Call TA Performance and ask for a camshaft recomedation. Dont ever take a huge camshaft like this and put in an otherwise stock engine!!
thanks guys, ya ive been reading up on this cam more and more and i think im gona ditch that paricular one and probably look into a 113 poston instead. Im assuming a 2800 stall conv would be a great addition for the 113 or the 288-94 eh? *its a 71 stock rear end btw* thanks again guys!
so do people on here generally prefer TA over Poston? what would my compression ratio be if i had stock 72 455 block (rings are good) with 430 mildly decked heads? how much more can i deck these 430 heads without too much complication? lets say they're stock 430 heads...how many thou. of an inch? -i know uve gotta deck the intake side aswell since the manifold wont fit properly if u dont thanks guys!
because...it loads the dizzy gear and wears out the 1st cam bearing a tiny bit faster than stocks oil pumps?...or is there another reason?
It is not recommended because it may kill your cam bearing and the distrib. gear very quickly. Get the TA cover or their shim kit for the stock oil pump.
hey, don't know anything about the 107 cam, but i run the 113A, it sounds sweet, pulls hard, and i only drive around on the street.... i have a SP conveter though, and even though i've got a stock 2 series gear non posi, once i'm rolling quick it'll pull pretty hard. also have a friend with the same engine setup (machine work done by the same guy too) with the 113A, with 373 posi, and nice meaty street slicks, the car f****ing flies on the street.
A little trivia tidbit on the "107" camshaft grind. This was originally a profile developed by Eonic, a company in Detroit, that developed the profile as an NHRA legal stock eliminator camshaft for the Olds W30 engine in 1970. The grind would also meet the Buick Stage 1 specs supplied by the factory to NHRA as well and performed better in our Buicks than anything else that was available. We simply had a master made of the Olds camshaft and the infamous "107" was born! Doug Jones
i suggest the 288-94h from ta for street car, advance it 4 degrees with X pipe it sounds nice with a lope works well with a small convertor(2200-2400) and stocker intake get the distributer recurved will more compatible with stock gearing but really likes 3.42 gears i run this in a 430 with shorty headers and performer intake/350 trans the 107 would run better with a single plane intake and big carb
...yes it used to have a '71 6 cyl...i ran the #'s..was also made in fremont, CA well, my buddy had a poston 107 laying around and ive bought it off him for $75...hes ran it before in his skylarks and hes had no trouble running a 3000 stall conv. with it, also bought '68 430 heads/intake off him aswell along with '70 stage 1 valves/dual springs/retainers/new lifters etc, the valves will have at least a 3 angle grind, and the heads will be gasket matched, midly ported and will be decked round .020"...im also looking into an edelbrock intake man. and adj pushrods I know im gonna hear it from u guys that a 3000 stall conv. isnt enough since the poston site says the power band starts @ 3300rpm for that cam. I brought this to my buddy's attn, but he again re-affirmed me that a 3000 stall was fine. Im now wondering what my c/r ratio and my piston to valve clearance is gonna be if i deck it .020" and put those big stg1 valves on with the 107 cam? any ideas/thoughts would be awesome, thanks!!!
Actually a neat trick if you're usually running street tires is to run a converter that stalls a few hundred rpm under the beginning of the cam's power band. A bit less shock to the tires while the steam starts to pour on. Advancing the cam can also bring the power band in a bit earlier and help tame the low speed characteristics as well. A word of caution...not all converters are made alike. A generic off the shelf job may stall at the rpm you want, but may be sloppy all the way up to that point making drivability no fun and heating up the trans for no reason. Take the time to talk directly with a high quality converter supplier such as Coan. They can build to suit you and the drivability below stall speed is usually much better than you'd get elsewhere. Another avenue to investigate is a variable pitch setup, if you're up to it. FYI, with the 107's lift and duration, you should plan on notched pistons, especially if you're going to do more machining of the heads/deck. Piston to valve clearance should always be checked before you do the final assembly. Devon
