1969 GS Stage 1 - Body work, Paint advise... lots of it needed

Discussion in 'Color is everything!' started by James McD, Mar 9, 2020.

  1. James McD

    James McD Well-Known Member

    I have had my car for (gulp) 20 years now. I completed the mechanical rebuild (motor, trans, rear end) 15 years back. And I de-rusted it (lower qtrs, lower fenders, trunk pan, core support) 5 years back. I have been tackling each step during the winters, and then putting it back together to keep driving it.

    Now it is time to break it down and repaint! I am currently taking the car down to bare metal, as the one repaint it had was very thin and had some cracking through the paint. The car has never been the the prettiest, but.....I have only found two small thin areas of any bondo, and no rust repairs other than what I have done. I feel I am very lucky having this as my first re-paint. I will attach a few pictures to frame the project, and then jump in with my questions.

    In the booth
    GS paint booth.PNG Bondo driver side, passenger had it in about the same spot
    GS Bondo_Drvr rear qtr.PNG Passenger door jamb GS Passenger_door jamb.PNG
    GS paint booth.PNG GS Bondo_Drvr rear qtr.PNG GS paint booth.PNG GS Bondo_Drvr rear qtr.PNG GS paint booth.PNG
     
  2. James McD

    James McD Well-Known Member

    First question, I have rust holes on each side of the rear window... about where the factory lead is. I am not sure if this can be welded, does the lead go into the window channel?
    GS rear window rust hole.PNG

    I have scraped/sanded the rest of the rear window channel, and welded the (1) other hole I found. I am wondering if the rust in the channel should be treated with POR15, or will the epoxy I plan to shoot the entire car with be enough to treat it? Also... seam sealer, should it be done before or after the epoxy primer?

    Fixed rust hole, bottom passenger
    GS Rear window, rust.PNG
     
    Last edited: Mar 10, 2020
  3. telriv

    telriv Well-Known Member

    Clean it & scratch it up pretty well & solder it.
     
  4. hugger

    hugger Well-Known Member

    Por is good stuff, but for that area here is my suggestion,..blast it with a little "speed blaster" they are cheap and perfect for this kind of stuff

    Blast it
    Epoxy prime it
    Buy a tube of 3M 8115 epoxy
    Fill the hole and sand smooth
    The repair will outlast you and the next owner
    Its non intrusive and is fast and easy, that's about max size hole I would span with it but it will do fine
     
    Smartin, Quick Buick and Buicksky like this.
  5. James McD

    James McD Well-Known Member

    Thanks, appreciate the input and the ideas for the different approaches.
     
  6. scubasteve455

    scubasteve455 Well-Known Member

    Ditto 2 part epoxy after coat of epoxy primer. Mud will do nothing.
     
  7. scubasteve455

    scubasteve455 Well-Known Member

    That body seam could use some epoxy primer. then day later . Or when you primer car. use 2 part epoxy in the seam after you put maskin tape on both sides. swipe epoxy with finger pushing in down in. Then wipe with shop wipes with thinner on towel. lightly. 2 part automotive epoxy is like $60. to $80. tube. But well worth the money. Do not put mud in that seam. That’s A really nice Buick
     

Share This Page