hello all, I've begun some of the minor work necessary to be legal on the road (and maybe some not necessary) and seem to be confounded by the steering column. I have identified one bad horn (low tone) and confirmed the other works. If I decouple the connectors at the base of the steering column I can get the horn to sound by grounding the black-with-blue stripe wire on the chassis side of the harness. I've taken the steering wheel apart and reassembled (properly this time) the horn pad so it makes contact when depressed and still no luck. I pulled the steering wheel to chase the wiring down into the steering column (the flat ribbon cable of wires that runs up to the wheel has good connectivity per my meter, but the wires that come into the wheel itself do not). I had to make the steering wheel puller and am about to make the lock plate depressing tool (J-23131) but thought I should enquirer here and get a sanity check before I go nuts and sink a bunch of time and effort into this when there might be a quicker/easier way to chase this down. So my question: is there an easy way to test the wiring inside the steering column for the horn? My meter says it is not connected. (Am I performing the right check on the right wire?) before I take this whole column apart, can someone verify my work? Thanks!!
There is a horn relay in the circuit, either up behind the dash or on the firewall. Don't call your self crazy yet.
Thanks DV8. Well, if the horn sounds when I complete the circuit on the right hand connector (see attached diagram), that should clear that whole part of the circuit as good, per the manual (this includes the relay). I believe I'm doing this part correctly. This leaves the portion that runs into the steering column. I'd really prefer not to tear down the steering column if I can help it to find where the open in the circuit is. Has anyone gone through this process and found an easier or quicker way? If not, are there any tricks to disassembling and reassembling the column? Or any gotchas to look out for when doing it? Is there a rebuild kit I should go ahead and get? The first step after using the lock plate depressing tool is to pull a retaining ring with a screwdriver and toss it. Can this ring be re-used or is it a single use item? I'm worried I'm about to create a large mess and I need to be able to drive on the 30th for a local charity carshow, so I really don't want to dig a pit. Any advice is appreciated!
SWEET, this looks like it's accessible from below the dash? I'll explore tonight to find this connector! Thank you!
Well, I think I found the issue: the turn signal canceling cam has a worn brass ring and it has deformed to it no longer contacts the little button that closes the circuit for the horn. If I ground that button to chassis ground, the horn sounds. Now to find a replacement. My local Buick dealer can only search back to 1976... -__- Is there a way to check the compatibility of parts that are from after 1976 back to 1970? I'd like genuine OEM if I can find it. Thanks for all the insight and help, everyone!
I'll have to check where I got mine when I get back in town. I'm not sure OEM is all that important if it isn't visible?
You can buy the cancel cam new, ..... with either a tilt, or non tilt application, (but it's an aftermarket reproduction). See the attached links at the bottom of this post. BTW , .... the illustrations in post number 4 are for 67-68, ...... not 70. The correct connector for the 1970 is flat, as in the attached image. https://www.opgi.com/skylark/CH30891/ https://www.opgi.com/skylark/PP00037/ Larry
Matt, I was hoping for OEM for durability (read that Dorman, which is available at the parts store is meh for quality which concerns me). But for 7 and change I'll give it a shot. It's not that hard to get the steering wheel off now that I have the puller and know the process. Bluzilla, thank you for the clarification! My connectors are flat and I was scratching my head a bit. I actually registered there and was checking out when I saw the shipping was 10 bucks then they added a fee for insurance on top of that, so the 19 dollar part is more than 30 to get to my door. I don't mind paying for quality (I prefer it actually, since I like to pay for something only once). But grossly over charging for shipping then milking me for insurance on top of that rubbed me the wrong way. When I need something significant I'll likely go through OPGI, but I'm turned off from them for little things. I do appreciate you finding the part for me though, I was a bit paranoid that I'd order the wrong part. My old one is flat and the replacement was too according to the picture. If my decision to go with the local parts store bites me, I'll chalk it up to lessons learned and just go with OPGI and save myself some time. Thanks again!
