2004r swap

Hi everyone I have been Reading your Juice box posts, it seems to be obvious that many of you have a vast amount of knowledge and experience in hot rodding.
I have a question about doing a transmission swap with my 64 F85 Olds. I have the old stock Jet away Tanny in it now and would like to put in a 2004R, 2200Rpm stall/ lockup. the information that I have read and the people I have talked to say that it should be a easy one to perform. the shop I was going to have the Tanny pulled and installed with said they didn't want to be tied up in a custom Tanny swap with a many hours and little pay.
Can someone shed some light on this and let me know what way to go on this. I have rebuilt the engine 403ci +.030 cleaned up the pockets and exhaust ports on the #6 heads, new seats, guilds, isky 262 cam, Edelbrock intake & carb, headers, HEI. 3.08 Rear (11MPG) if you have a minute please let me know what you think about this. I have called Bowtie Overdives they have the parts.
Thank you in advance for your time
Ernie Hampton

 

The 260-307-330-403 share the same block dimensions and all have the same bellhousing pattern. If you got the 2004r from an Olds, I'd probably grab the throttle valve cables and linkage as well, since the blocks are the same dimensions, it would serve (logically, not in reality) that you can use them on the 403. You may need the driveshaft shortened or lengthened but I'm not sure about that.

Aside of that, you may want to check out the forums at http://www.oldspower.com/ if you haven't. I know us Buick guys are smarter and better looking but there's bound to be someone there that's done this kind of swap.

 

You might want to check with Bowtie overdrive 760 947 5240 They are in California and could possibly direct you to a conversion friendly shop in your area.

Bob H.

 

Should go pretty smooth and can be done in your garage if you can safely get the car high enough. I would definitely browse and Olds site and get some advice from who did an Olds specific swap If you're dealing with Bowtie I would get their TV cable system and transmission crossmember (the stock one can be moved rearward about 6" but it will partially obstruct the transmission fluid pan). Keep in mind the transmission cooler lines are flipped on a 200-4R: top line feeds the cooler, bottom line is the return.

 

Thank you all for your input on this, I m still looking around at some different sites. this site has been somewhat more forth coming than some of the others. good information and all.:beer I'm holding off on ordering the parts until I understand this more. I don't have anyone to help me with some of the work if I try and do it here in My work area. so the swap has to be in a shop for safety concerns. keep up the good work and ILL let you know what I find.:Comp:
Ernie

 

Good information here:

http://www.442.com/oldsfaq/oftrn.htm#TRAN Auto Transmission Swapping

The 200 R4 is a dual bolt pattern with both the Chevy 90 degree pattern and the BOP pattern so it should be a bolt in. Areas where you will have possible problems is the Throttle Valve (TV) cable attachment to your carburetor, the cross-member attachment point (200 R4 further back like the TH400) and the drive shaft length.

When we replaced the TH400 transmission in Shari's GS 455 with a 200 R4 the driveshaft needed to be longer and the throttle cable bracket needed to have the TV cable attachment point added. Then there is the torque converter lockup control box make the use of the lockup automatic.

The advise to check with Bowtie Overdrives is sound:
http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com/index.shtml

 

Hello Folks, I'm going to put a 200R4 into my 70 Wildcat/455. I'm looking at one from a 1987 Cutlass 442 (or so the seller says). Does this one have a governor that controls the TCC, or, because it's controlled by the ECM, is it run from the VSS or something?

I really like the info on bowtieoverdrives, but I couldn't find anything on early vs late 200R4s. Do the TCCs all work the same way, regardless of year?

Thanks for any info!

 

IIRC, the 2004-R only uses the ECM for the converter lockup.

What I was able to find:

Beginning late in the 1982 model year, the THM 200-4R transmission control valve assembly was changed to eliminate the Torque Converter Clutch Valve Train. The computer command control unit controls the converter clutch making the torque converter clutch valve train unnecessary. A new solid plug replaced the control valve assembly to direct oil flow.

In 1984 production, all 200-4R OZ model transmissions were built with a dual pump slide spring to help with a 3-4 shift busyness problem at wide open throttle.

Beginning January 1984, all 200-C, 200-4R and 325-4L transmissions were produced using rubber lip seals on a new design intermediate servo piston in place of the scarf cut Teflon seal rings used in previous years. This change was done to correct soft 1-2 and 2-3 shifts.

In April 25, 1986 a new design "feed/bleed" system for the forward clutch was introduced to give more cushioning during forward clutch apply, giving a softer feel when shifting from park or neutral into drive. This change was not used in the BRF models.

Sometime around 1989 a new pump body was made available to help prevent fluid leakage from the front seal caused by a front pump bushing that has moved forward in the bushing bore. A step was designed into the bushing bore that blocked the bushing, preventing it from being able to move forward and interfering with the front seal.

 

You can get a stand alone lockup harness from Bowtie Overdrives. It's a simple two post pressure switch and the harness. I have one on my `65 and it works perfectly.

 

You can also wire the TCC by yourself with about $20 in parts. I have my lockup running off a toggle switch, vacuum switch and brake switch. Remember if the lockup is engaged and you hit the brakes the engine will stall unless you have the brake switch.

 

Sean, thanks for the reply. PM about the TCC controls sent.