Will this create too much heat during cruising 35- 45 mph? I'm gonna run the ta 212 cam it will be a street car. Probably have stock gears. If I remember correct the rpm was 2000@ 60mph. If that helps
You want your cruising speed rpm to be higher than your stall speed. If not the converter will be slipping and causing heat build up. Bob H.
Unless you manually shift it and keep it in 2nd on the highway, it will be in a constant state of slip (thus heat). Bad idea. If you're going to spend some money, get the rear rebuilt with a different set of gears. Like Bob mentioned - you don't want your stall speed higher than your cruising RPM.
Ok so what choices of brands do I have? Al I know is TA. I have the 350 trans. And it now seems that I need maybe a 1500 stall convertor. Any opinions with brands/ prices? Thanks:beers2:
Are you asking because you need a new converter to begin with? If your current converter is fine, look elsewhere to spend money. If your current converter is in need of replacement, it may be a symptom (or cause) of other transmission issues.
Actually my current convertor is fine... But I would rather not waste time and end up tryin to change it out later. The current has held up really great. But I have no knowledge of its stall and such.
I would suggest that you leave it and focus on other areas first - things that will show a performance improvement now and still be useful in the future. The rear end gearing may give you the most bang for the buck right away and still be useful for future modifications. I like the 3.42 ratio for something used for both street and strip. If it's a little deep for you on the street, you could always run a taller tire to take some of the gear out of it. It's what I ran my GS455 and it worked great as an all-around ratio. Looking at your photos on cardomain, it looks like one of your plug wires in on backwards - the plug end is mounted on the distributor cap?
I've said this before, and it bears repeating. There is no such thing as a 2500 RPM converter, or a 3000, or any other number. The converter will stall at a certain RPM in a particular combination. You can try and pick one out of a catalog if you like, and maybe it will be what you want, and maybe it won't. Your torque converter is one of the most important parts of your combination. You get what you pay for, simple as that. I'd either stick with what I have, or have a converter built for MY COMBINATION. With the current state of converter technology, you can have your cake and eat it too. What you want is a converter that is built tight for the street, but it stalls where you need it when you punch it. You can have that, but it costs more. You can have a converter built that will feel stock until you hit it. Want to take a chance that you will get it right by picking one in the Jegs catalog?
With stock to 3.08 gears in the rear I wouldnt do too much more than a 1800ish stall like a TCI Saturday Night Special. A "little" more stall will help get up into the cam's powerband a bit quicker and still be great around town. For a 2500ish stall converter you really need to look at the rear gears to match up the combo. With stock gears in the rear, there will be lots of slippage driving around town.
TH350, B&M internals, TCI 2800 stall, 3.42 gears and no problems with heat. I've got the stock lines and a 4-core radiator. Autometer Trans temp gauge in the pan. Never seen it go over 180 street or highway in 20 years.
I've been considering putting a stock converter back in the car since I really don't run big and littles and run hard between stoplights like I used to. It's just the debate of doing all that work or waiting to get an OD trans, which is really what I'd like to do.
I have those plug wires backwards because its easier to remove and install them that way I understand the theory of the convertor... I was just makin a general statment about what the manufacturers call there products. Like with TA if I'm correct they have the 2000 and 2500. I do want a stock acting convertor, because its gonna be a daily. But it would be nice to have some stall when a mustang is sittin next to me at a light. Lol Thanks dude!
If you had a 310 cam or another large cam that has a higher power band then the stall converter stall speed would be a priority to get the engine to drive well on the street or track. Since you are using a mild cam with a stock engine it is not a must to up the stall speed. The TA 212 cam works fine with the stock converter, I have done that before. The 212 cam makes great torque at low rpms. I added a 2400 rated converter later and the off the line performance was better for sure. Mine actually stalled at 2300 rpms and I had a 2.56 rear end so the high stall convter was really helpfull to multiply torque off the line and get me moving. I just made sure I was not driving under 2200 rpms on the highway because as others have said driving under the stall speed can cause extra heat. Bottom line is, yes you would gain off the line performance with a higher stall converter and I agree 100% go with a quality unit.
