Well this time he used a 4.350 bore and no pipe on the exhaust, I did more work to the bowls, I lapped the valves to see exactly where the valves were seating and went about 1/16 under it and blended from there gently into the bowl, and also polished the chambers and here is where I'm at: INT EX .100 72 62 .200 156 118 .300 215 166 .400 265 207 .500 305 230 .600 319 239 Ross pistons Eagle H-beam rods 6.635" Poured lifter galley full length windage tray like JW posted a pic of TA 308S Cam TA Dominator intake 1050 Dominator Pistons are sitting .027" above the deck and I'm using .060 copper head gaskets with o-ringed block. Any guesses on the HP and Et : 69 GS 3500# with me TH-400 10" 3800 stall, 12-bolt with spool and 4.10 gears, Art morrison adj uppers, Southside lowers without the dropdown brackets, Morroso springs front and rear, airbags, 28x12.5 ET Streets Through full exhaust 3.5 into DR Gas X 3" Super Dynomax mufflers and 3" tails. I also have a set of 3.73 gears I will probably try.:Brow:
Head chamber CC? If it's in the 12-1 range or higher, I would say 630 ish HP and an easy 10.60. Don't bother running the 3:73 gears, unless you have traction problems, the car will slow down. I'd dial in the chassis, and run '56's myself. Big heavy cars go faster et's, the quicker you can get the mass moving, within traction limitations. And Todd, I have 6 sessions scheduled on the dyno this month, depending on the progress of motors around here, I may have an open 5 hour slot at the end of the month here. One of my customers is upgrading to a roller cam setup, so his build is going to take a little longer. I will know toward the middle of the month here. Drop me a PM, if your interested still in dynoing. JW
Should be pretty close to 13-1 I didn't take much out of the 64cc chamber just cleanup/polish and layed the point back between the valves. Jim let me know what your Dyno schedule turns into I sure would like to get it up there.
I would agree w J-Dub on the mid 10 second potential. I think the converter might be too tight for the car to reach it's full potential. You are smart to not use the brackets w/ the SSM bars,set you pinion angle around 2 degrees and crank up that right airbag because it's gonna twist. As far gearing,if the 4.10's are in there,they are a good starting point,I've run that gear from an 11 second car down into the 9's. At 125-128 MPH,w/ a 28"tire,you should see 6500 RPM +/-. Future suggestions....try and kill 150-200 lbs,go to a 30'' tire,looser converter,roller cam,and an air pump. You'll be playin in the 9's then. Good Luck
For sure loosen that convertor to 4500-5000 and get a pair of 30x9 Hoosier Radial slicks. Those two changes took me from 10.50s down to a best of 10.11 and that is at 3825-3860lbs in GSE trim.
Gary's right.. I musta missed the stall speed.. I would run a 5000 stall 8" converter. That is what we had the best luck with, in that type of car. JW
ATI for also. My converter is a 9" though. Be prepared this one was about $900 This one of the most important parts to getting the most out of your combo.
Mine is a Coan 9''. You should give them a call. They are very helpful and will want to know everything about you combo.
Hey todd, Just thought i would say hey, Let me know how the motor turns out for you. I also have the issue of being out of the hole. .018 I will use a copper gasket as well. .030 71 455 .59cc 67 big ports stage1 GS105 cam 554 lift/ 554 duration 105 lobe center ross 11 to 1 pistons talk to you later.
