350 valve cover removal?

Discussion in 'Small Block Tech' started by HwyStarJoe72, Jul 25, 2023.

  1. HwyStarJoe72

    HwyStarJoe72 Well-Known Member

    Is it normal for it to be impossible to remove the passenger side valve cover on a 350 in a '72 Skylark with A\C?

    The rear hold-down\bolt next the suitcase is impossible to remove. I know I have worn mounts (which are on their way) but it still looks like it would be a pain. Now I know why a previous owner put a small bolt in there... must have been with the engine removed because it's buried.

    I'm pulling the engine very soon for a gasket\seal refresh so I can get it then... just wondered if it's normal.



     
  2. BUQUICK

    BUQUICK I'm your huckleberry.

    I feel your pain!

    I just replaced the original 51-year-old valve cover gaskets on a '72 Skylark with a 350 and A/C. As you mentioned it is TIGHT! If I was working at a dealer on the flat-rate schedule I would has lost a lot of money on that job because I'm sure it didn't pay nearly as many hours as it took me to complete the task (the original gaskets came apart in pieces no larger than 1". A horrible mess).

    To remove the fastener you describe at the passenger side, lower rear position, I had to use a thin 1/4" ratchet with the perfect length socket. With that combination it would barely reach the bolt head and still allow me to swing the ratchet over the top of the valve cover. If your engine mounts are worn out or sagging, then your clearance is probably even tighter and even my ratchet and socket might not work.

    The week before I replaced these valve cover gaskets I pulled the engine from my '67 GS. I removed the hood, radiator, and engine from the '67 in less time than it took me to replace the valve cover gaskets on the '72 350 with A/C!

    Good luck.
     
    HwyStarJoe72 likes this.
  3. Mart

    Mart Gold level member

    Piece of cake...1/4" ratchet a 3/8" deep well socket...& a little patients! 16903153835203429162653717019522.jpg
     
  4. Mark Demko

    Mark Demko Well-Known Member

    Right on!
    It’s not bad at all, just use the tools Mart mentioned, just keep your hand on the deep 3/8 1/4 drive socket ( your hand will fit) as you loosen the bolt, it’s a tad tricky but NOT impossible.
     
    Max Damage likes this.
  5. HwyStarJoe72

    HwyStarJoe72 Well-Known Member

    Not gonna work. I tried every combination of extension, universals, sockets. Even ratcheting wrenches. It must sag too far. It's good to know that it's still a major pain to do otherwise. I have new engine mounts so it's coming out first. :confused:
     
  6. Mart

    Mart Gold level member

    No extensions or universal joints. That won't work.
    Usr One 3/8" deep well socket, 1/4" Drive ratchet. That's all.
     
  7. knucklebusted

    knucklebusted Well-Known Member

    I just did this to a 455 with an AC box. I know it only has 2 bolts on the bottom but it is a bigger engine. 1/4" drive 3/8" socket worked like a charm. My 350 cars is non-AC so no issues with it at all.
     
    Max Damage likes this.
  8. Max Damage

    Max Damage I'm working on it!

    I also have no (factory) AC in my 350, so it's easy. Sorry!
     
  9. Mark Demko

    Mark Demko Well-Known Member

    IMG_0997.jpeg IMG_0998.jpeg This is how I do it, and the tools I use.
    Everything is 1/4” drive, DONT try to use 3/8” drive, it’s too bulky.
    I have TA valve covers which are taller than stock which makes it even tougher as far as room goes.
     
    patwhac and Waterboy like this.
  10. Fox's Den

    Fox's Den 355Xrs

    I couldn't remember exactly how I did this but right there above is exactly how to get those covers off.
    Fire starting this weekend?
     
    patwhac and Mark Demko like this.
  11. Mark Demko

    Mark Demko Well-Known Member

    I’m kinda on schedule, lol, gotta get a new cap and rotor.
     

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