Looks like I'm taking a tour into the nailhead world. I'm picking up a 66 skylark roller. The local junkyard has a complete 66 riv with a 425 and switch pitch 400. It seems only proper to mate the two. From my Google research it seems the 425 will need a rear sump pan to start. I have a few other questions- it seems the nailhead stuff in an a body isn't a real easy swap Regarding the motor mounts, can I make the riv frame pads work? I'm not opposed to fabricating a set, but if the riv mounts can be used, that will all the more easier and i can cut them out while i grab the drivetrain The other big issue seems to be the exhaust manifolds. Are the riv manifolds simply not correct or are there interference issues? The driver side manifold looks like it will be close to the firewall.. headers would solve it but would rather not spend the $$ on them. The last question is about the accessory brackets. The 425 is complete, would the alternator and PS brackets work? I like the idea of the 425, but I don't want to spend crazy money making it work or searching for unobtainable parts.. Any insight is appreciated!
Rear sump yes. Cut the frame mounts out of the Riv to widdle down to what you will need. The accessories from the riv should fit fine. Shorty headers Have fun with it and welcome to the old timers section
Riv mounts won't fit the Skylark, it's a much different install. The 65-6 Skylark GS uses adapter plates to attach the engine mount boss at front of block to the crossmember that sits mid-block. You'll need the GS adapter plates, engine mounts and frame pads. It is possible to fab the adapter plates and use Chev engine mounts (3 bolt vs Buick's 4 bolt), you still need the GS frame pads. WildBill just listed headers for the GS, $350-ish or get them from TA. In addition to the rear sump pan, you'll need the proper oil pump pickup. Different wiring harness too since starter is on drivers side. Accessory mounts are the same between Riv and Sky GS.
Not sure on the manifolds, I made my own tri-Y headers. I did a 66 Special years ago with a 401 and 300 trans. Lots of fabrication but I enjoy it. You should be good to make what you need with your skill set.
Nope, the Skylark GS manifolds are very unique. The big car manifolds are made to work with a front mounted crossmember
I've got a complete 65-66 GS setup I don't need. Manifolds, rear sump pan and pickup tube, frame pads and mount adapter plates. Even a set of good used motor mounts. Shipping wouldn't be cheap.
If all That stuff was put on a mini pallet with 1/2” plywood sides and top he could easily get low cost shipping with “uship” where shippers bid on the job. Being a bit over 100 pounds I would say the best bet is to have it shipped to and from locations with loading docks or a forklift. Or split it up into two 50 pound boxes for manual loading anywhere. I’ve shipped engines 1500 miles for $200
I've helped guys out w/shipping rates using my UPS account. Just needs the weight, approx. dimensions, and shipping/receiving zip codes.
And battery moved to driver's side or really loooooonnnnnnggggggg cables. (I put a nail and manual in a '64 Skylark and an Olds small block and manual in a '64 Special) It's not complicated, only complex.
I'm going to head to the yard this Saturday and better assess the condition of the 425 in the riv. What size is the damper bolt? If it doesn't turn over I'll move in a different direction..
1-1/8" If it has accessory belts, cut them or loosen the brackets so your not fighting any frozen accessories. Plugs out and a squirt of 50/50 ATF/acetone and 10 minutes to soak will help. Then steady increase of torque back and forth and see if it will free up.
I made it to the yard today. Upon further review that riv was likely in a flood. There was a layer of mud/sediment on the motor and of course its locked up tight. Back to square one.
