bead of rtv on water ports,...dab in each corner where heads meet block Copper coat,..gaskacinch,..thin smear of rtv,..hi tack etc will all work around intake ports If you have the heads with the weird divider wall between the runners,..a little thicker material build there is necessary most times Place pan down repeat what you just done Obviously you plave the rubber end seals down on the VERY CLEAN AND VERY DRY chiba wall
torque to spec,...LET IT SIT OVERNIGHT,...break bolts loose one at a time 1/4 turn torque to spec,....let it sit several hrs or even over night,....repeat one last time OR,..check the tq and see if they retained their spec,..then check after a few hwat cycles
I’m in the same boat... these box stores and the kids working the counter are so F****** frustrating. This isn’t an emergency but it is time sensitive; I’ll be deploying again in a couple of days. Also, thanks Hugger. (Edit). Just saw your reply.
Not that I'm seeing. I don't see metal removed/melted. I see discoloration--appears to be soot--in the area where the fire ring should have been sealing. I don't see blowtorched gouges. But that might be your indication that the head needs to be planed. Even if it isn't blowtorched, it could still be warped, pitted, rough. How's the block surface?
The block surface had the same pitting in the same area, but not nearly as severe. I got the call that I had to fly out so I slapped the motor back together with the new engine and it fired right up. It also ran like normal and sounded strong. The way she used to run. I was pretty pleased. However I still have smoke coming from the right bank just like before... even though it’s running so much better. So I’m guessing I’ve got a replacement or rebuild on the horizon when I get back home. For now, I’ve got her out back together, covered up, and tucked away in the garage. Thanks again to everyone for the help!
With luck, that's just crap in the exhaust system that hasn't burnt away...yet. Better to plan for a fresh engine, and not need it, than to plan to use it as-is, and find out there's still problems.
Yes, the deep dished pistons lower the compression ratio and therefore cranking pressure. When you get back I'd check all the cylinders again just to see how they all compare after the repair. How did the cam lobes look on #2 cylinder? I'm not sure how much water would be bypassing and it may contribute to running hotter. The real problem is the 455 puts more heat into the cooling system because of the extra cubes and thinner cylinder walls compareed to the 400. The narrower radiator doesn't help compared to the big cars and '68 and up car's radiator. On my '65(455) and '67(455) I ran upgraded radiators. Hopefully you are running a 160* or 180* thermostat and not the original 195* unit and a good fan. The lower temp thermostats will give you more time until the car starts to get real hot. Too late now but if you ever take the intake off again block off the exhaust heat passages in the heads that lead to the intake. That will keep the intake cooler and add a few HP. No need for that heat down in Carolina, even in the winter.
