I know that this one is tough to answer with all of the factors that could affect it but what would an approximate cost be to rebuild to 1970 455 motor so that it would run well on the street but have a little extra punch to it for fun? I would like to maintain the "stock" look and possibly put 400 valve covers and brackets to make it look like a '68 400 engine. I would not be doing the rebuild myself since I have never even rebuilt a lawn mower engine :laugh: I have an opportunity to pick up a 1970 455 (complete) out of an Electra. The motor is not currently in the car and has been sitting in dry storage for a couple of years. I am toying with the idea of pulling my numbers matching 400 out of my GS to store it and dropping in a 455 to play with :Brow: :beer
Mike, I'm in the middle of assembling an obsessively over-built street 455 (iron heads and intake, shorty headers), and here are my numbers off the top of my head: $2100 in machining in my street 455 block and iron heads (went to big valves), that's doing nearly everything but an align hone (checked, but not needed). Blueprinted and Balanced, and I'm doing the assembly (well, they put the pistons on the rods). About another $2000 in parts, including Forged Wiseco pistons, coated bearings, and arp fasteners, plus an IgnitionMan MSD dizzy, aluminum radiator, and John Osborn Q-Jet. By the time I'm done, it'll prolly be right under $5K for everything. But then, I started with NO big-block parts, if you can use some of your 400 bits you'll be ahead of me.
Mikey wants to play ??!! I'm not going to go into costs but I will tell you to figure in a tranny rebuild Twhy not a new case while your at it) and a different rear to boot .... Drop the whole drivetrain or you run the risk of grenading those #'s matching pieces too Dropping my whole sh-bang for a play system increased the fun factor by 10x at least ... And its even more fun knowIng I can beat the Crap out of it without hurting anything but my wallet
I had just over $4000 in my assembled, balanced & blueprinted longblock. Another $1500 worth of parts, and I had about another $2000 in my heads, valvetrain and intake. $7500 is a good budget to assume if you're doing it without cutting corners. For a stock, or slightly stock rebuild you can save some money on engine kits, etc. Maddog Racing had a good kit on Ebay that comes with the TRW forged pistons. IMO, if you're putting a motor together don't settle for less than forged--hyperutectics and cast just aren't as strong, but it comes down to preference. Some important things to pay attention to (learn from my mistakes): 0-deck the block if you want true 10.0:1+ compression without cutting the heads severely. Make sure the clearances are just right for your application--not too tight. Use a REPUTABLE BUICK BUILDER who will stand behind thier work. Search "Oil Modifications" for requisite mods DO NOT use a FRAM oil filter Degree the cam Ask a LOT of questions on the boards, and good luck with the build! :beer
I would say... you could be putting anywhere from 750 to 5000 into it. I would add to it: Slightly bigger cam, new lifters (of course), bearings (of course), shorty headers, intake manifold, have your q-jet rebuilt, get the heads cleaned and maybe even ported/larger valves. that would be right around 2000, maybe a little higher. The if you needed boring, pistons, and rods you would be right around 4000 with all the bits and pieces and work included. i would estimate it at maybe 425-450 horse, depending on cam and compression.
Good deal Mike. Time to have a little fun. :Brow: Good idea to pull the #'s motor. As far as the trans goes I wouldn't worry too much about that. You probably could use a rebuild but if it were to grenade you probably wouldn't hurt the case anyway. Did you figure out what was going on with the rear end noise? It's tough with the 8.2. You could pull it and save it for the #'s thing but if there's something wrong it may be hard to find parts to fix it anyway. It's probably a good time to throw in a 8.5 to beat on and in the mean time maybe you could gather the parts you need for a rebuild on your 8.2. I'm picking up a 8.5 out of a 72 Lark in the next week or so because I want more gear and that's a no go with an 8.2. You could probably keep the costs down on a rebuild by not going overboard and buying the best of everything. AM & P has some good looking prices in their catalog for basic Stage 1 short blocks good for 400hp or so. I know you won't be beating the snot out of your car anyway so you shouldn't need the "best of everything". Forged pistons, good oil mods and good bearings small valve heads with maybe a little clean up and adjustable pushrods should get you good power without hitting the wallet too hard. Just have your carb reworked by Osbourne or Norm Deihle. Norm does some great carbs that will handle all the power and his prices are great too.
I've got some 8.2 BOP parts if you're interested. Auburn pro series posi and 4.56:1 gears (I know, pretty steep for the street, but you did mention "fun"). Neither have ever been installed, but have been in boxes for a while. I actually have the aluminum TA rear end girdle/cover, as well. Nick
Nick that 8.2 stuff won't fit the 68-70 Buick rears. It's talked about quite a bit in the gear forum.
Hot Rod '68 Mike - I did this in parts over the last 6 years. If you only consider the engine this is how it went: '73 block core, junkyard score for $75 Machine work on short block $680 Short block parts (GSCA) $960 - this includes forged pistons, ARP rod bolts, Cam and lifters, etc. Used Stage 1 heads with some porting - $500 Rebuild heads 5 years later, new Scott Brown cam - $1000 Lessee, that adds up to $3,215 of which about $200 could be eliminated if I'd not bought the GSCA cam and lifters. Say $3k more or less in the engine for a basic 10:1 455, crank cut, balanced, rebuilt rods, oil pump booster plate and adjustable regulator, ARP bolts, ported heads and intake manifold, Hogged out iron exhaust manifolds, forged pistons, gaskets, seals, and engine paint. Assembly by me. Make it $5k for the same deal done by a shop. I also changed from a one legger 2.93 rear to a 3.07 posi and put in an 1800 stall converter, rebuilt the transmission, 2-1/2 exhaust. This took the car from a low 15 second ride with blue smoke billowing out to a consistant 13.5 @ 103 car with a best of 13.20 at 104.5. Twelves would probably come with some sticky tires and maybe a gear change.
:eek2: This could get very expensive quick I see :eek2: I guess I have to sell a "BUNCH" of window stickers for this project :grin: On second thought, I think I will just get a Chevy motor and drop it in p :spank: This is the bad part of having a #s matching car, I can't have as much fun with it as I would like :Brow: Maybe this won't be happening anytime soon but I guess I could pick up the complete motor that I have a chance to get for $200 and park it in the garage for "some" day Todd, Still not sure what that noise is in the rear but it has not changed in the last 7 years. I may just pull the rear out this winter and have it gone over by a local Buick guy.
used 72 short block-JE pistons, Cunningham rods, indexed factory crank $1800.00 Bearings, rings-$330.00 Heads-TA ST 1 aluminum 2.16, 1.75 ported, polished, equalized chambers, ceramic coated bowls-$3200.00 Cam & lifters-$240.00 MSD distributor-$270.00 MSD 6AL-$190.00 Plug wires-$85.00 Plugs-$16.00 Modified pan & pickup-$150.00 Roller rockers-$340.00 Head gaskets-$89.00 Misc. gaskets-$70.00 Intake-$175.00 carb-$365.00 So lets see, $8k plus the machine shop. Too much dinero and still not done. It's running but I want more!!! ou:
Heres some real numbers to take a look at. I bought my core '73 455 for $250, my SP1/Ported S1's for $1600, the pistons from Ebay for $400, rod/main/head studs (ARP) for $150. I spent another $1300 or so with TA for the valvesprings, shims, retainers, cam, bearings and all that jazz. And the machine shop bill... All told, I spent way too much to have the #6 rod spin and throw after only 20 hours run time. Theres another thread with that story, but I thought my (relatively high priced) machine shop bill might help you for itemizing.
right at the top of the list, PH 25, that is a Fram oil filter now im happy at what my machine shop bill is/is going to be.
Hahahahaha... Yeah, that thing got ripped off my longblock as soon as I got home. I think 10 of you guys jumped on me for that, it never made it past the "prime" stage... and that was at the machine shop! Its sitting with fresh oil in it on my garage shelf if anyone wants it, just pay shipping! :laugh:
Mike I had Dave Griswald at Center Auto in Stratford, CT do my 400 with all new parts @ stock specs for $2785.00. And it ran a 13.96@98.5mph at ATCO!!! :TU:
Mike, The BBB in the 4X4 ran me and my Bro close to $5K. Its a very healthy build. Now remember the .100 overbore was pricey. My buick buds on this board likely saved me a grand in parts and advice, so right off the bat your better off than most folks.
Does anyone know a good engine re-builder or machine shop in Northern Illinois for my 455 ?? Thanks Norm
If you don't mind coming about 1.5 hr north to Waukesha, WI. Automotive Engine Rebuilders did the machine work on mine. All the clearances are set up perfectly for a Buick engine. This place has experience in all kinds of engines. from single cylinder go-kart engines to tractor pulling diesels. 1604 Arcadian Ave Waukesha, WI 53186 262-521-2250
