455 Regal for sale

Discussion in 'V-8 Buick Powered Regals' started by RIVI1379, Dec 9, 2008.

  1. RIVI1379

    RIVI1379 Well-Known Member

    I have listed my car with pics in the for sale section, very clean body and fresh driveline, also on ebay...would like to see it get a good home
     
  2. RIVI1379

    RIVI1379 Well-Known Member

    ttt...on ebay now with a reserve of 5850.00-would love to see a board member get it
     
  3. RIVI1379

    RIVI1379 Well-Known Member

    Re: 455 Regal for sale (MORE DESCRIPTION)

    here you go Sam...like I said, I purchased car for 1500.00 from a gentleman in Long Island. It was formerly a 350 Chevy motor, EFI car, I never saw it
    with it's former drive train.
    Everything was cut out, except the interior. It had a junkyard rear, no fuel tank, no crossmember for trans-nothing.

    I started at the rear, found a 7.5 gm 10 bolt rear with an Auburn carrier and Richmond gears out of a Cutlass on E-bay for 500.00 upstate. the lower
    control arms are stripped and painted, factory bushings, in decent shape and Regal t-type FRONT AND REAR SWAY BARS, ALSO STRIPPED
    AND PAINTED.

    90/10 shocks in front, new coil springs in rear, and some shock that came with the car, I stripped and painted also. Fuel tank is new with a factory
    sending unit, Carter electric fuel pump and the tank straps were in the trunk, I strpped and painted those as well. The rear axle was spotless, and has
    a Summit rear diff cover. The drive shaft and U-jouints are custom made to length, reaching to a 73 TH400, manual valve body, all heavy duty GM
    and Trans Star clutches, sprags, and a Trans Specialties of Aston, PA 3000 rpm stall. (by the way, the rear is 4:10, little too steep for a driver, and
    for this set up overall, but that's what it was when I bought the rear.) All this good trans stuff is secured to a G-Force crossmember to further
    stiffen up this car. Between the cage and the crossmember, rigidity is not an issue.


    The motor is a 73 455 from an Estate Wagon, heads and block. Block was cleaned/magnafluxed/cheked, bored .030 over, .010 bearings throughout,
    EGGE pistons via T/A performance, as well as all bearings, cam, double roller etc all from T/A. I assembled the rotating assemlby, checked all
    clearances and prelubed all moving parts with GM EOS. Heads are non ported, but did have valve job/seals/seats ground and stage 1 valves
    from T/A as well. Jess Miller in West Chester, PA did the machine work. The intake is an Edelbrock B4B with a 770 Holley street avenger,
    could certainly take advantage of fuel and igntion upgrades, but the pump was free, and the carb was cheap but brand new. Stock GM HEI
    with a new pickup/module, new GM cap and rotor, Blue Max 8.8 mm wires. T/A shorty headers flow into hand made 3" exhaust with Walker
    Dynomax welded case mufflers, and exit in front of rear tires.


    Tires are 225/50/16 goodyear eagle rs-a upfront, bfgoodrich 225/60/16 touring t/a out back, which were free used items, mounted on 16x7
    Torquethrust II's from an F-body (camaro/firechicken) I had "acquired" as well, but the off set is not ideal, but they work, no spacers either.

    All exterior lighting functions, even reverse lights, and I say that because the car was formerly some cheeseball aftermarket shifter, and the
    column shift was still in it. I went to a junk yard and got some of the linkage pieces I needed, and made a shift bar from where it pivots
    at the frame over to the trans shift shaft, not the prettiest thing I've fabricated, but it works good. The colum lever actuates the reverse lights,
    and I just like things like that to work. Wipers work, horn works, power windows do, although power locks do not. I think the driver's door
    will unlock only. Trunk light works, dome light works.

    As far as engine accessories, no power steering pump, tough to steer but there used to be a set of skinny skates on the front former
    dude said. I have a fully sand blasted power steering pump and hoses, brackets for it, I just need to adapt it to the steering box.


    The alignment seems ok, although one of the upper control arms I moved a bit to fit the motor in, the bolt was hitting the header,
    front bolt, so I cut it back some and removed a shim or 2. steering wheel is centered and drives ok. I drove it everyday for 2 weeks
    while my poor Cavalier was in the body shop, some queer in an Enterprise rental smashed into it, pushed it into another car, ...
    any way.

    Fuel pump and cooling fan are toggle switch activated through the dash, the TACHometer is the clock face in the insrument
    panel, and it idles at about 1:00! (I love that) Dont be shiftin' past 6:00 now, ya hear... the cruise switch activates the line-lock
    solenoid, whick also works. I have the original hood, paint is as nice as car.

    Body is very nice as you can see, vinyl top has 1 cut at left top, all the chrome is nice, rear bumper has been replaced
    front is ok, needs the fillers for front, rear filler is perfect. Interior is factory neutral (tan, saddle, whatever), some panels were
    dark brown, dyed to match seats and carpey I guess. Has cheesy pop up sunroof, and some kinda birdsnest etched into
    1/4 glasses, weird, but I don't think clear glass will make it any faster-so there they stay. Seats and headliner are also
    in very nice condition.

    It is slow here at the shop, but I've enjoyed typing about a car I pushed into my garage and drove out. Had to HAVE SOMETHING
    to do while my Riviera was getting a facelift. No room for 2, or money. I have an uncanny ability to leave nothing alone-which means
    spending $ I do not have, but we all know how that goes.-Corey

    5850.00
    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
     
    Last edited: Dec 27, 2008
  4. RIVI1379

    RIVI1379 Well-Known Member

  5. RIVI1379

    RIVI1379 Well-Known Member

  6. RIVI1379

    RIVI1379 Well-Known Member

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