I had my 455 engine broke-in on an engine dyno about three years ago. I'm finally getting it in the car and was looking for some guidance on wheter or not I need to pre-lube the engine by removing the distributor and turnig the oil pump prior to start-up. Is this necessary, or could I simply crank the engine for 30-60 seconds before attempting to start the engine. Any thoughts? Thanks, Philip
Man.... Prime that thing!!!!! Turn it until you see oil running down both heads inside the valve covers.......
Pack the oil pump with petroleum jelly (vaseline) The petroleum jelly will break down in your oil, but it will also allow the gears the move something they can move, so you will draw oil. The gears can't pull air.
Do what Chris suggests. I didn't and when I tried to prime the BBB in my roadster the pump wouldn't pick up oil. I was lucky since I have remote oil filters and it was easy to pull a line and pour oil into it which filled the pump with oil. After that, pressure came up ok. Both times I was spinning the pump with a cut-down distributor and half inch drill motor. I have primed oil systems in a 400-M Ford and 2000cc Pinto with 3/8 drive speed wrench, extension and appropriate socket. That may work on the Buicks, but it's a lot better to use a drill motor. When you do prime the engine make a point to turn it over while the priming goes on. If you don't, sometimes - most times for me - all the rockers don't get oil. Turning the engine over when oil pressure is up assures oil to all the components. My little brother found the same with his 463" Olds.
You may want to try priming it before packing the pump.... It couldn't hurt, and if you don't have to pack it, so be it. You'll know if it's needed with in the first 10 seconds of tring to prime it. I've had motor prime right up from sitting 2 or 3 years without packing the gears. IMO no need to pull the cover off the pump is it's not needed.........
What Rich said. But by any case, PRIME IT!!!!!!! PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!PRIME IT!!!
All good suggestions above. I prefer White lithium grease to vasoline but if it disolves and doesn't clog close tolerance passages, use it. On a 3 year sit, I would be a bit concerned about ambient atmopheric effects on exposed parts. IE the valves and cylinders where the valve was opened for that time. If you live in a low humidity climate or had alll holes sealed w/ tape it won't be a problem.
White lithium will not dissolve in your oil. You really don't want to use anything but a petroleum product. It's your car, tommy, and you can do what you want, but I strongly recommend never using white lithium grease in your oil pump
