If your trap speed is 105mph, you are making enough power to run mid-12 second E.T.s. I agree with the others that traction is holding you back. If you can get the car to hook, and get the 60' times down to the 1.70-1.75" range, your E.T. will follow suit. Once you get the traction figured out, you may want to look at your ignition curve. If you can taylor your full mechanical advance to be all in by 2200-2500 rpm, you will see further improvement in your 60' times. As far as cylinder head modification is concerned, larger valves and port work are a great way to make more power. The trouble lies in the cost. Port work is very expensive, and even if cost is not an issue for you, the additional power gained by head work will not help your traction issues. The difference in combustion chamber volume from 70 to 72 heads is minimal. 2-5cc on an un-machined head. The resulting loss in static compression would less than 1/2 point (10.0:1 to 9.5:1 etc.) and would have a small impact on your power output. Compression enhances both torque and horsepower, but less so at the 10:1 level, than at the 13:1 level. If you spend your money getting the chassis to perform, you will reap great rewards.
[/URL][/IMG] , [/URL][/IMG] a set of these will lower your 60' and give traction and this will make you hook anywhere you want http://pimpjuicetraction.com/How_We_Roll.php. good luck Gary McGruther
any ideas for setting-up the suspension ? besides removing the front anti-sway bar (I have the WS6 type) ?? I don't have one in the back though.
I really liked Gary's input on the subject. It seems to be very budget minded as well. http://v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=213538 http://v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=212126
Please look really good at this picture [/URL][/IMG] That belongs to a street driven car that see's just as much or more miles then some of the in here. The set up is no joke and it works good. Lets put it this away the car has seen low seven second passes and getting ready to make some mid six second passes now. Any time you have tunability in the rear suspension you win. It's up to you to get it where you want it. They are several groups out there that make multi pick up points for the frame too. You can raise and lower the car to your own height. I took a 1985 Mustang with a semi built 302 (360 hp) with a stick shift from high 13's to low low 12's just adding Adjustable control arms. I was still twisting the daylights out the frame because I never installed frame connectors. There was just an tv show on tnn (Muscle car) that did a 1970 something BBB Total gear swap,rear suspension, Brake system (all wheel disc system) and many more things too. You'll never belove what you can learn on T.V. now adays.
