Bought a 55 4 door post and the guy I bought it from said the trans was rebuilt. I installed the trans but the cross member will not line up. if I bolt the cross member to the trans rubber mount the cross member doesn't line up with the bolt holes on the frame. Its off about an inch. I checked everything to make sure the trans is installed correctly. The engine motor mounts are correct. Seems like the trans needs to move forward but there is no way for this to happen. Wondering if this is the correct transmission for the car. Unfortunately I assumed it was the original trans and didn't check the numbers before putting it in. I hate to have to pull this thing back out. Anyone have any ideas?Thanks ---------- Post added at 07:46 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:20 PM ---------- After researching some threads its looking more like I have a 56 trans. Its measures 25 1/8 to the end of the retainer where the torque retainer connects. So my next question would be has any one ever modified the mounts to fit a 56 trans in a 55?
1) Is the bell housing on the transmission cast iron or aluminum? 2) Measure the bell housing depth/length from from face to the trans face. 3) Get the code off the bottom face of the 1" aluminum spacer/housing just below the cylindrical high accumulator. It is stamped in the aluminum flat facing the ground on driver's side. It will begin with a letter followed by 2or 3 digits. This will be the build date code. There were 2 different length transmissions in 55 dependent upon model. Special and Century were supposedly shorter than the Super and Roadmaster. Did you have clearance enough when installed that you had to pull the torque converter forward to mate up with flexplate. ? When you get all this info, repost. .............John
Maybe I jumped the gun, since this trans has a cooler attached Im thinking it maybe out Super or roadmaster.
Yes the bell housing is aluminum. Measures 6 1/2 inches or so. It bolted up to the face plate just fine without issue. Only numbers I could see was on the passenger side. 1666 2 if that means anything.
56 was the first year of the aluminum bell housing and it is exactly 1" deeper than the 55 cast iron housing. It is likely a 56 but we need the code to verify. The 56 will work in the 55 but being 1" longer will require that you slot or redrill some holes to accomodate rear mounting and still use the same crossmember and thrust pad setup. This will shift the differential rearward 1" also but is not a concern as the wheels still appear to be centered in the rear wheel well. Be sure to mount and shim the thrust pad per instructions in the 55 shop manual. If you don't have one, get one. John
Thanks Texas, I actually already drilled new holes on the cross member and was able to mount it. There is a gap between the trust pad so I will have to make some spacers to get it to work. Do you know if I'll have an issue with the spline from the drive shaft fitting? An oil cooler came with it so I made new oil lines and got them to fit. Will I have an issue using the 55 cooler? Thanks
Proper shimming is important. Cooler is fine. Spline could be different, if it is you can remove torque ball section and change the u-joint. Previous owner or transmission shop may have done that. You could count the splines to see if they match.
Thanks for all your help Texas. Really appreciate I. Hope to have it all buttoned up this weekend. Have a Happy Thanks Giving
Well I was able to get the trans n and everything looks good but I ran in to an issue. The spline on the 56 Trans doesn't match the tube on the 55. I have a 53 Trans and the spline is the same. I can use it I just don't know how to remove it. Anyone have a clue. Thanks
The ujoint is retained by a 1/2" x 20 bolt and washer. You need a thin wall 3/4" socket and short extension. It is snug on shaft and may require some gentle persuasion to remove it but is not a tight press fit. Torque is 35 ft lb. Leave trans in park to lock the output shaft from turning. Refer to shop manual in the Dynaflow section.
