I have a '67 buick skylark, with a 300-2 in it and a "powerslide" tranny in it. It has the stock 2G 2bbl carb on it. I attempted to do a 4bbl to the 2bbl manifold with a $20 adapter from Pep Boys, got about 1/2 way done and found out it was going to be a pretty bad idea. I found a 4 bbl manifold from a 1964 rover 215. Will that fit onto my 67 block w/ 67 heads???? If not, what years am i looking at for compatibility? Any other tips for making my 300 a little hotter? Thanks everyone! Chris
intake hi chris a while back there was a thread about doing this you need to make a valley pan spacer set up because the 215 intake is narrower i cant remeber the exact demensions of the piece but i think you can search this sit for past posts. You can get a cam from many places for an increase in power plus there is a couple of other trick for the 300 that others on this board can turn you on to adam
A 64 Rover 215? New one on me, but who knows. o No: More than likely you have a 64 300 manifold. Problem here is that the 64 one is water heated and the 65+ uses exhaust gas. So, what you may have is a problem with sealing the 64 manifold to the head ports for exhaust on the 67 heads. If it is a 215 manifold, then you will have a valley pan problem. Might be easier to sell the 64 manifold and try to locate a 65 300 one. Rare, but not impossible to find. Just my 2 cents, Mark
Intakes are a problem for the 300. Fitting a 215 or a Rover intake onto the 300 takes some planning and adapter plates. I have linked to one example in another post, and attached a NRO picture of Sean Etson's adaptation of a Rover aftermarket intake to a 300. Sounds difficult, but you could actually make the plates in the garage in a few hours with sheet stock, a drill, saw and die grinder.
This is one intake adaptation using Buick heads, but on the Rover engine. Note the adapter plates on the heads, and the valley plate. http://homepages.paradise.net.nz/~bdaley/rp.htm
Seans intake. See that plate between intake and head? And the valley pan? (Or did I goof up the attachment?)
Thanks Cool, i can see the plate. I think i'm going to see if I can find a 64 intake, that sounds like a little easier. Thanks everyone. Chris
Before $pending the $ to buy a '64 intake, check out some of the old posts and other threads on the SB forum, because the aluminum intakes and heads are reputed to have poor flow characteristics, compared to the cast iron parts. Also, being the 4bbl intakes were both 1 year options (aluminum in '64, iron '65), both are getting rarer every day. I have seen used edelbrock aluminum intakes for the Buick 215/Rover 3.5 go for the same as stock iron '65 4bbl heads. Given these facts, it is no wonder there are so many willing to make/have made plates to adapt aftermarket intakes. Choose wisely!
I could make those adaptor plates easily at our shop with our CNC burntable. If there's enough people that are interested (and someone could give me samples or dimensions) I would make a batch of them for you at cost. (probably around $15-$20/pair plus shipping) (.....Assuming they are either 3/8" or 1/2" thick and they don't need surface ground) If they need surface ground or are a weird thickness, I won't be able to help. Are there about 6 or so people here that would be interested?
the spacers end up under 1/2" when finished but thats what i started with but my block was extensively decked and the heads were also milled so on a stock deck hight block they may stay closer to 1/2" and the valley plate is made of 1/4" plate. the outside shape and rough port openings were cut on a production plasma cutting table all the rest of the work was done with a hand grinder. most everything on my motor is modified and hand fit. also edlelbrock's 215 manifold has way small ports without extensive welding and porting they aren't even big enough for the aluminum 300 heads.
Sean, do you know of any suitable dual-plane intakes other than the factory '65? Any good British Leyland products adaptable? Or should I stock up on iron '65's while they can still be had?
64intake-67block Rick; Don't know if you've gotten any responses to your offer to CNC the 215 adapter plates. If you can make the plates for $15-$20 per set, I'll sign up for 4 sets. I have intake gaskets for both the 1964 alloy heads and the '65-67 iron heads that can be used for port and water locations. Mark
Hi Mark No-one has shown any interest, and frankly I forgot all about it. I just happened to be scanning the forum and found this thread again. I'm still willing to make them. But I'd want to make sure I'm not responsible for fit & function. I don't have the parts or time to put together an engine with the combo on it, so I'd need accurate dimensions or a sample to copy. But the offer is still there. We have the machines to do the work, but I don't have the expertise to guarantee anything except workmanship and that they would be dimensionally equivalent to the sample part. You wanna be the guinea pig? :Brow: If you know the thickness (1/4",3/8" or 1/2" is all we would be able to do), and can send me your gaskets, I'll get a pair made up for you to try out. That would still leave the valley pan to be reckoned with though. Take care Rick
Rick, I don't mind being the crash test dummy. Sean Etson sent me a hand drawing of the pieces he fabricated. The end plates are 1/2" thickness and the valley plate is 1/4" thickness. If you email your mailing address, I'll send gaskets and some money to fab 2 sets. I have spare engines in the garage that I can use for fit up. Just out of curiosity, what business is your company in? Mark
Hi Mark I work in a custom fab shop. We do mostly industrial stuff. I was hired about a year and a half ago to start up a Conveyor and Automation division. I do all the mechanical/electrical engineering, sales, marketing..etc... for the new division. We have a couple CNC plasma tables, press brakes, shears, rolls, punches, tons of welders (tig/mig/spot/portable etc..etc... ) all the basic fab shop stuff. Actually we could probably make alot of repro car parts if I could show the boss there was a market out there. We can really do a great job for little $$ if the pieces are nice flat shapes that could be burnt out where they didn't have to be .020". We have a small machine shop with mills and lathes...but that's not our forte'. We can use our brakes and rolls to form pieces, but .....that's not something I can do myself, so we'd have to pay shop rate, which would drive the cost up. I'd be glad to work with you on getting a prototype set made up. The only $$ I can't help you out with is the actual shop labor running the burntable (because I can't do it myself ) and the material cost. I can do all the autocad work on my own time for free. Maybe it's time to take this conversation "off line" and get down to the nitty gritty. Shoot me an email or a PM and we'll talk details. ricknmel@woh.rr.com
