I just began my conversion today. NAPA had EVERY part in stock!$495 with a $90 core on the calipers. I'm going to get jusk calipers from a yard for $10 each and get at least $70 back. The brackets were $115. All totaled I'll have $540 in parts. Actually a little more because I'm swapping the stock wheel studs for longer ones to accomodate my thicker aluminum wheels. And the $4 for the hi-temp caliper paint. So far the most time consuming part has been cleaning the steering knuckle and suspension. I can't just leave it dirty now, can I? But it looks like a bolt-on so far. I should get the passenger side done by tomorrow night. With cleaning and painting (dry time excluded) it looks like maybe 3 or 4 hours a side. If I wanted to just bolt it on, then maybe 1 1/2 hours a side. Maybe even less. Pics to follow.
Sweet thread guys. I will be following this one closely in case I want to do this on my Wildcat. :beer
While my car stops better and will be more reliable to lean on when needed, the pedal feels spongy. Also, I did a panic stop and the pedal was all the way to the floor. So, I'll bolt on the OEM 69 Riv master cylinder for a Riv with disc brakes and see how it feels. They are $22 from NAPA (reman'd) and where the drum MC has a 1.0" piston, the disc MC has a 1.125" piston. I'll post when I get it installed. If NAPA has it in stock (doubtful) I'll get it done this weekend (probably by tomorrow night). If not in stock I'll do it next week when it arrives (unless it gets here Sat AM, then I'll do it then).
Some stuff taken from a brake discussion on the B-Body Impala SS board on why changing calipers and Master Cylinders have effects on pedal feel amoung the available options for thier cars.
Did you change the proportioning valve?If not it will need to be changed.The peddle on mine is tight and when I did some emergancy stop tests,(several)the peddle was always right on,and I only bleed the system once as I am now taking the entire car apart for a body off,my luck when I finally get it all back together in 10 or 20 years :laugh: the brakes wo'nt work ou: :laugh: .Jeff
I have to throu this in. This thread reminded me of a cartoon I saw once.Guy was looking at a used car and ask the salesman "Does it have power brakes" salesman "yes sir it does" customer "I hate power brakes" salesman"Thats fine because they do'nt work" :laugh: Sorry.I could'nt help myself.Jeff
There is no proportioning valve on my car OEM. I have an adjustable one I will put on this weekend with the MC change.
I still couldn't be happier with this kit. Once I get it balanced I'll have all the data in an article for the Build Sheet and (hopefully) the ROA Riview.
90$ CORE ON THE CALIPERS? :eek2: The last time I changed mine on my 75 Electra, there was a 6$ core on them (and they did cost less than 20$ each)... The 71-76 Buicks use very common front brake parts shared with all other fullsize GM cars from the same vintage. I have even heard that much newer 2WD pickups used the same calipers (but I haven't verified that).
Yup. $45 per caliper! Well! NAPA had the NEW (not reman'd) MC IN STOCK!!! $35!!! The pedal now feels like a real car! Firm and high (like Bob Seger says, "Way up firm and high"). I just got it warmed up for a test drive and the heavens opened up, so it'll have to wait. But based on the many cars I've driven in my life, the pedal feels very good. I have not put a proportioning valve in it The adjustable one I got is really just a pressure adjuster and not a true proportioning valve. And it will require a short piece of connecting brake line to hook into the system. I'm going to see what is available in REAL proportioning valves, but I don't think I'll need one.
