I want to replace the light bezels on my 68 Skylark for better ones but they don't clear the bumper . How many space it is supose to have between the end of the bumper and the fr fender ? They have the same distance from both side and "looks" ok to me , but still can't install my bezels o No: And how to adjust the bumper , by the bumper's bolts or only those on the bracket underneat ?
Maybe I should have said "gap" . actually I do have 7/8 in the back of the bumper to fenders and 3/4 (passenger side) and 1 inch (driver side) on the "top". I may have to lower one end .... or maybe both . Even the driver's side who has more gap (1 inch) don't clear enough ...
The brackets should be securely bolted to the bumper face and all adjustments of the bumper should be done at the frame to bracket slotted holes. Sheet metal alignment and straightness is important to obtain correct gaps. If you have access to an assembly manual, the body sheet metal and bumper gap values (with tolerances) are given there. Matt
If I'm remembering this correctly don't you have to remove the grille and grille supports to get the headlight bezels out on the '68-'69s? Or is it that you have to remove the headlight bezels to get the grille out? I don't remember but know there is some connection. ou:
More probably the 2nd option , headlight bezels should remove freely , only 4 screws on each bezels . But my bumper must be a little too close (high) Just enough space to change the sealbeam . I made a 2 for 1 trade with a friend who want my last T3 for his very nice 69 Skylark custom and he took out his bezel in a minute . I gonna have to read my manual , thank you for the tip :TU:
What I have found works best is to find a friend, have him support bumper while you loosen (not remove) the four bracket to frame bolts. This will allow you to slide the bumper forward and down as needed. You can support it with jackstands (or leave it hang **not sure on your year**) and it will be ok. Factory tolerances are huge, usually 3/4" (well ok, 0.70" for 1971 and 1972) for sheetmetal to bumpers. Don't worry so much about making tolerances perfect, just make everything is nice and even, no huge gaps. When its time to put back, cover the aft edges of the bumper (edges esp) with several layers of masking tape, have him tighten bolts once you are happy with alignment. Note YOU do the final alignement so if you bash the fenders... :laugh: Tape prevents scratches but also lets you see alignment (unlike foam or towels, etc). Final tweaking can be done side to side if needed. Are original T3's that valuable??? Have a couple here...
slight correction Tim, The measurement is .72 witha tolerance of +.06 - .04 ... must be parallel to within .06 - a lot tighter than .75!! They weren't that bad! Matt
yeah ok!! :laugh: I was rounding off....so .68 to .76 (3/4")....whatever its still HUGE!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Parallel to .06 yeah right, they couldn't even stamp the metal that close!!! :beer Tim
