Repro vacuum actuators are available from OPGI but pricey. Another option is modify the ones for Camaro which are about 1/3 the price.
69 camaro canisters will work one of the vacuum nipples isnt straight but the hose will fit on it or go electric, like on the 66/67 rivieras heres a german owner of a 68 telling about his conversion: https://www.facebook.com/groups/BuickRivieraOwners/permalink/1669982726384249/ Armin Hamann 20 juni 2018 Now finally I got it done. My conversion from the vacuum actuators to electric motors for hideaway headlights. I just want to give you a quick overview how I did it... First I bought two motors from an old Mazda MX5 Miata. I found out, that they fit perfectly, and you don’t even have to change the swingarm on it. Then I used two standard relais. Both relais just need a normally closed and a normally opened contact. Then of course some wire, best case 5 different colors, bolts, nuts and so on. I also used a 10 ampere fuse and a fuseholder to keep it save... I started with passenger side by removing the vacuum actuator first and fit the motor in. So I bolted it in place to see how it works and it turned out really good. Next was wiring. I routed the positive wire (+12V hot wire) from my horn relay to the front, and split into two with splice. Horn relay is located on the driver side front fender. Then I bolted the new relay on, by using a existing hole of the frame next to the motor to save some feet of wiring work. I also used this bolt as my ground stud for grounding the motor and the relay. All you need to do then, is to route the hot wire to the relay and the motor, and ground both of it. Then go straight from relay to motor with the two “signal lines” for up and down movement. There you go. Only one wire left, and this is your actual input to the relay. So you need to know when you want your headlights to open. I just used the parking light. Cause in good old Germany, the parking light needs to be in the main headlight where your low beam sits. But you can choose any electrical source you want. Ignition, low beam, horn signal, break light - what ever. Then just rout the signal to the relay and there you have it. Wiring done... Next is the linkage between motor swingarm and the lever on the headlights... I used a threaded rod for this. So you can vary the length a little bit. Up and down is a ball joint for smooth movements. That should be it so far. Last thing, what I did, is a strut between frame and motor point number 2, so it sits tight in there and can’t move anymore. I hope I could explain it good enough. For questions, text me or comment below... Some photos and a quick schematic for the wiring...
Going over my vacuum system mine seems to be missing vacuum tank check valve . It should be on the fire wall right ? Does any one have any for sale i cant find one . anywhere
are you sure opgi is not selling the check valve? let me ask around for you cant find the rest of the 1968/1969 vacuum headlight scans on my computer but here they are with the photobucket logo in the middle: you can find the letters g h j k l and m in the first scan:
Thankyou everyone . i did get a manual. Is that check valve on the fire wall or in the fender . my manual looks like on the firewall
The plastic part on the firewall is the vacuum manifold they're known to split at the seams and cause a vacuum leak. The check valve is toward the bladder tank. Also the bladder tank is in between the inner and outer driver side fenders pressure test it for leaks to see if it holds air. There's also another diverter valve box up near the front core support, pull the battery out and on the inner fender there's a cover with two bolts, take that off and the diverter valve box is in there. Make sure the valve is working properly. I'm switching my Riv over to electric by using actuators and a switch, the vacuum system is unreliable and a pain in the arse to chase down problems, not to mention if you have performance mods you may not have enough vacuum to run them. Hope all this helps Paul!
I have a complete set up removed from my 68 when I went electric. The cans are converted Camero canisters and I made hard lines to plumb them. All connections done ready to install. PM me if interested.
