69 Buick 430 heads. Stage 1 conversion or porting?

Thanks man I made my mind up haha. Ta heads. Now stage 1 or stage 2

 

Thanks man will most definitely do!! Got my comparison to do

 

As long as you don't mind buying new headers or if you don't have any , I will always say go stage 2

 

Don't for get to figure in the headers as mrntioned, stage 2 geaders arepushing 700 bucks plus 100 shipping. If you already have standard port headers that are good and fit your need.

Valve notching might not be needed depending on how much lift your running even with the bigger valves. Remember the stk pistons are not notched at all. Cam lift, duration, centerline, and how much the block has been milled will be what determines how close the p u stone and valves get..........if your short block is together already I would wait and clay it b4 I ripe it apart to do machine work that might not be needed

But I can tell you that a .510 lift with 240 degrees duration @50 didn't hit........I don't fully remember cam spec but will look them up

 

the current web page on the Ta perf fancy pushrods.
http://taperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=TA_1428B

my "low budget" idea is to do up the short block with the 464 size custom height piston from Jim W. And doing the 430 heads I have up with a hot tank and magnaflux to hopefully end in a crack free set with a three angle valve job to get it into the car and running. Then I can save up for a set of ta heads with the Jim W "entry level" porting and assembly so i can bolt them on.
I want to do a roller cam setup but that is a lot of money too. Probably will keep hunting a used bumpstick to go into the short block and saving the coin for that roller cam setup.
I found I have the older(and I've read better) set of 430 rockers so I will use them. I've had my fill of header leaks and changing blown out gaskets so I plan for a set of manifolds and steady look for a set of those fancy "Jim Rogers specials" with the massage he gives them. I have looked at just getting the pair up on a mill and opening up the outlet. But that is just dreaming so far.
until then I keep reading the forum and dreaming. And picking up used parts as I'm able to find em.

 

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rfl-13-001

These will fix your header gaskets issue. I have used these on a lot of cars, motorhomes, etc........just don't over tighten. I even used these on my stg 2 headers that with my motor being setback causes a conflict with #7 tube and my control arm bracket. Even after denting the tube it still wouldnt fit, so I cut the flange to get movement......well long story in less than a hr it burnt the gasket, but these in, but for the stg2 .....no more leak

 

x2 on Remflex....excellent product

 

Alright then. He said i didnt have to do it but to be safe i should do it plus if i wanna run roller rockers or longer push rods in future ill have no problem.

 

Longer push rods don't effect amount of lift......just get the geometry right and set preload on a non adjustable hydraulic system.

Roller rockers could add lift depending on ratio. Let's say your cam is .510 lift with 1.55 rockers going to 1.65 will give you .542.

 

Inspect used rocker arms VERY carefully. Most are worn-out at the valve tip. Some are wounded at the pivot (shaft, in the case of Buick.) A few will be damaged at the pushrod socket, or cracked somewhere.

If the shaft is polished where the rocker rides...fine. If the shaft is scored, both the shaft and the rocker are junk.

Chevy--Olds--Pontiac--Ford--Intercoursable...it often takes three or four sets of used rocker arms to get enough good ones for one engine. I have 2 sets of used Buick rockers, and I don't think I could come up with a full set of usable ones--which is why I bought new rocker arms and one new shaft.

 

Good thread.

 

Digging up an older thread, but Briz if you ever want to sell those 430 irons, I'm first in line lol. My Riv needs some performance too.