69 GS400 Stage 1, 4 speed, with AC car,105K miles and pretty much stone stock. This all started out with a simple fan clutch replacement and has snowballed out of control. The fan clutch was straight forward enough but then the water pump started making noise. While trying to track down the new noise I caught a glimpse of the water pump pulley wobbling around when I'd rev it. Now I find the water pump shaft a little loose in the housing. No leaks mind you but moving around a bit with hand pressure. Now the pumps coming off and i'd already duly noted that at least 3 of the pump bolts had long been missing (broken) including the long top 5/16" on on the driverside. Guess I'll deal with those too and 2 more 1/4" bolts I snapped getting it off. Great the 5/16" bolt is broken just below the surface of the timing cover, hmmm. Wellllll,I'm this far into it and with full knowledge of how loose that 105K mile timing chain was (when I changed the fuel pump) I'll catch that too. That long broken bolt gave me fits to even remove the timing cover for about a week of relentless heat and Kroil cycles,hammer tapping,cussing,etc. Finally it snapped again just above the block surface and the cover was off. Still it would take an air chisel with a punch attachment to get said bolt to even budge in the cover and eventually I prevailed. Well,except for the portion left in the block and believe me,I could probably write a book just on that. By this time I've got a new TA water pump,an oil pump kit,a new harmonic balancer(yes that ring was a bit wobbly also) gaskets,thermostat, and a Rollmaster double roller timing set. Oh,and I'd taken the radiator in to get cleaned out as I'd had a few seeps at the headers from time to time. After cleaning there are about 6 tubes leaking and no sense in chasing those so lets just recore the damn thing too. Who ever heard of a radiator only lasting 47 years? Such crap... Well,at least I think it's the born with radiator. What say you? Here's some pics of the tag and tanks,oh and one of that pesky bolt that caused so much grief... Any help,sympathy,advice,or even cusswords that seem to work better will be much appreciated. Jeff Lynn
I guess this stuff doesn't just happen to me! :laugh: Yep, seen the movie, know how it ends. ou::laugh: Just remember, you may lose a battle or two, but you WILL win the war!
oh and just remember that you have to oblong the holes on your fuel pump and move it slightly to clear the rollmaster chain. Otherwise the pump arm will rub the chain
Man-O-man!! If there ever was a case to be proven for anti-seize AND cuticle clippers, that's it!! I went through the same deal with and alternator bottom bolt. That one subdued me as the bottom case ear broke apart trying to drive the cut off bolt out. Looks like youre pretty well set up so Ill only ad that you should use that tap and chase all the holes and dope them bolts!! FWIW... If anybody else (me included!!) gets to do this job without the benefit of a new cover, run a 1/64" oversized drill through the bolt holes to clean them up and get the corrosion outa there. The alignment dowels will put it in the correct position; and DOPE them bolts. I'm gonna be starting that same job on the 455 in a few weeks. ws
Great advice!!! and commiseration...:grin: I did note the top of the stock chain being .790" from the block face and will check dimension with the Rollmaster too and dry fit likely with clay on the pump arm until I'm convinced I have enough clearance to avoid any interference. In the effort to loosen the long bolt inside the timing cover I drilled a series of small holes along its length in an attempt to get the Kroil to where it was needed. Not that it helped but the holes have now been filled with JB Weld and sanded off along with slightly oversizing the 5/16" bolt holes to remove corrosion. The 1/4" bolt holes have been all helicoiled (In for a dime,In for a dollar) and you can bet all will get liberal doses of copper flavored anti-seize ESPECIALLY the shank portions of the long bolts that pass through the timing cover. I regularly peruse this forum in search of advise and pitfalls to be avoided (what a great resource!) My biggest concern at the present moment is whether the above posted radiator tag/tanks are correct for a 69 Stage1 w/AC car and specifically if anyone has knowledge of transmission coolers being present (but capped) in 4 speed cars in the 1969 era.
Yes, the SW coded rad is correct for a 69 Stage with AC. There was a a post not long ago about transmission coolers with 4 speed cars etc. I would assume that the coolers are there unless removed, but from a production ease of assembly it was easier to just plug them, instead of 2 different radiators. Search for the post.. Terry
STILL not back together. Lol! Sidetracked with work on the 80 El Camino daily/work truck and busy at work with the snowbirds rolling in for the winter. It got better tough. I really wasn't worried about the oil pump because it did make almost 20 psi @ hot idle with Rotella 15W-40 but it is a 105K mile original so I bought a rebuild kit and the wear plate. After some time in the parts washer and while blowing them dry I spy a foreign object stuck in the filter bypass valve. The magnifying glass confirmed my suspicion that it looked like a clip off the carb choke linkage! (first pic) My mind is racing and the finger pointing at me. The only way I could see this clip ending up there was if it somehow found its way to an oil filter before I'd installed it... Then I got it out of the bypass valve... (rest of the pics) NOPE! this thing went through the oil pump! Well, I'm at a loss to explain how it make it past the screen on the sump. No denying it went through the pump though, worn so thin at the shiny spot (both sides) that it broke in two when I picked it up after taking these pics. I can only imagine the carnage it would have caused had it ended up on a crankshaft journal. Color me thankful! Oh, I did find the aluminum power steering mount cracked around the holes that bolt to the block too if anyone has a lead on one of these. ( Posted in the parts wanted section)
This will not help fix your existing issues with the water pump capscrews, but it will prevent a reoccurrance of it. There are several way-too-small screws holding the water pump to the timing case. These have been a problem for mechanics for decades. When you finally get them out and the threads cleaned up, use anti-seize and stainless steel screws. The timing case (and maybe the water pump housing) are aluminum. Steel and aluminum don't like each other. The stainless capscrews are not quite as strong as the regular steel screws, so don't get carried away with the torque. any 1/4" screw is not intended to be very tight. Ask me how I know.
Theres a safety valve, small sprung disc, on the pick up tube in the pan that allows oil to be sucked up when the screen on the pick up tube is blocked. After 100,000 miles this is likely. Only way I can see the clip getting into the pump. Also,the pick up is 1/2" compared to the 71 and later ones that are 5/8". Buick recognized there was an oiling issue for 67 - 70 engines so in 71 after many spun bearings, mainly 7&8,they enlarged the pick and oil passage to remedy the issue. Be careful with rpm if you don't do anything in this area. Unfortunately, it appears that you're due for a engine removal and rebuild, not cheap but with the rarity of your car it makes sense, especially if its a #'s car. Don't want to break that block.Its easy for me to spend your money but I'm just offering a few years of experience. gary
Success! I've been back on the road for some months now with no issues and it sure seems to run better(especially down low) with the new timing set. One word to the wise if you're upgrading to a roller chain setup is that the factory timing sets are 4 degrees advanced and at least on the Rollmaster set I used, installed at the 4+ keyway to duplicate the factory timing on my stock Stage 1 cam. Note in the pics the cam gear lined up perfectly with the stock set but the crank gear was a quarter tooth off. 4+ keyway on the rollmaster brought it back to the factory setting. Next up, I'll give the 105K miles Muncie some love along with the Hurst shifter and the clutch. But for now, I'm just enjoying the ride. It certainly runs cooler with the new TA super pump and re-cored radiator and I'm happy with the Eastwood 2K engine paint (brushed on the front of the block and sprayed the timing cover,water pump,balancer)
