I was wondering if anyone could help understand what the numbers on the front of my 1970 block are. Stamped on the drivers front is 34943FOB. The block has been decked, and the old numbers are very hard to see. These are the only legible stamped numbers on the block. Thanks for any help I can get!
455 I.D. Yes, It is a 455 casting #1231738 Date J8. I called GSCA and they told me it was meaningless data that the plant used and could not tell me much of anything except it was for the Flint plant.I may try to raise the numbers using the same method that police use to retrieve serial #'s from handguns. Thanks for your reply.
#1231738 is for a 1970/1971 455 Buick engine. The car's VIN should be on the front of the engine and the engine code can be found between the front spark plugs and the exhaust mainifold on the drivers side. Look for a two letter code starting with S for 1970 and T for 1971.
I wonder how the Flint plant worked it's way into this? If the block was decked, my opinion is that most, if not all, of the pertinent info in <u>specifically</u> identifying the origin of this motor is lost. Sorry. Hopefully I am wrong for your sake.
I would buy the appropriate serial number restoration fluid for ferrous metal, clean the surface and then take a picture. Once the metal has been stamped the the metal underneath is affected too but in a way the eye cannot detect without some treatment post bock decking. Something like this http://www.crime-scene.com/ecpi/69XX.shtml is used to raised numbers on firemans shaved but the principles apply to your application. Let us know how is works for you. If you have any doubt about where to look on a 70 455 post back so we can clarify this for you.
455 I.D. Thanks for the replys. All good help! GSCA told me that of the three plants that start with an F, Flint was FOB, Framingham OFB, and so forth. I wonder if any sense can be made of the other numbers on the front of the block. Since they are not a vin, can I assume that this is not a 71 block as if it were the vin would be in this location. The block is suposed to be a 70 SS with my vin, but it was decked. I will try the fluid to raise the numbers and hope that they are mine. There are numbers there, I just can't read them well enough. I will let you know. Thanks again, Bill
You need to get rid of the paint with a little stripper applied very carefully and then clean the suface with MEK or prep solv. With the light just right you may be able to read it but if the is something there you will likely be pleased with the resto fluid.
Okay, I originally posted the numbers from the wrong end of the block , in another thread. Let's see if these make any sense. I didn't take the block out while I've been changing gaskets, but I have the receipt for the block, from the place that we bought it. It was on a pallet when we bought it, with the following numbers on the tag from the factory: 1394851 Do these make any sense as to identifying the motor? We were told that it is a 71 Stage 1 motor. I just want to make sure of what I'm working on.
70 GS Stage 1 engine numbers I ordered the fluid for raising the engine stamped numbers and hope to have this done this week ( was on vacation for a while). I removed the drivers cylinder head to get better access and can see numbers and letters, but not good enough to be sure of what I am looking at. It is like a dessert mirage, I think I am seeing what I want to see and then I see somthing else. I will know in a couple of days if this stuff works. The good news is it is definitely a stage 1 motor and I can see the ss by the dip stick hole ( it looks like 22 when the mirage effect gets going). I am going to order a window sticker replica from my Sloan info today. My car currently has a built stage 2 aluminum head motor in it, with the original trans and hopefully motor on a stand next to it. I want to use it the way it is and maybe someday put the original driveline back in ( I doubt this because the car is really nice the way it is and the car looks bone stock with the factory wheels on it) Does anyone know how much pressure I should run in the rear air bags? Street? Strip? I have never had these and don't know how to use them. Thanks for the great ideas and help!
70 455 numbers Well I used the serial number restoration kit on my block and completely bombed out. The SS was visible before and after, barely. The acid did nothing but bring alot of copper to the surface of the deck. What letters were there were no more visible after than before. In fact they are now in my opinion less visible. It was worth a try. I did speak to the second owner of the car who judged the car at the nationals before he bought it. He told me that this is the original motor to the car, but the numbers were lost when rebuilt by the first owner. Got alot of valuable history and build info from him on the stage 2 motor that is currently in the car. Hoping to run it at Norwalk next month
