It seems a bit random, but I get lucky if I can cycle the top up and down without blowing a fuse. 95% new wiring in the car, with the exception of the actual switch harness and connector to the switch. New pump and motor. Just looking for suggestions. I did see that the connection between the switch and the connector might not be 100% tight. Could additional resistance in that connection cause the fuse to blow?
It does not. I bled the pump and lines some more, and I’m not having the issue now. Just trying to get it operational for the top guy next week.
Is it blowing fuses or tripping the breaker? I did’nt think any fuses were in the top circuit. If it keeps tripping the breaker, you probably need a rebuilt motor. Patrick
If you're running topless at the moment it'll only be worse once the fabric is installed and there is a bigger load on the motor. I would clean and grease all the joints. Beyond that i would run wires directly to the pump with the same size fuse inline and see if it still blows. Essentially eliminating the harness and switch and bench testing the motor.
IF I remember correctly it did NOT have a fuse, BUT a circuit breaker. IF it keeps tripping it could be loose connections somewhere causing an undue amount of electrical consumption. Is the wiring up to snuff?? Just because it's new wiring doesn't mean it's the correct gauge wiring which will/could cause more resistence.
Well, I keep blowing 20amp fuses in the fuse box, and the top stops working. I don't recall seeing a circuit breaker anywhere on this car. I had it down to a bare shell. All new reproduction wire harness, with the exception of the original pig tail for the switch itself. Once I lubed and adjusted everything on the top frame, things seemed to settle in and no more fuse blowing.
That might be part of your problem. I believe the pump should have a 40 amp breaker. 20 won't cut the mustard
Without looking at my car...I think kind of what Joe said. A circuit breaker, no fuse. I also think my top works w/o the key. Again, without looking, I think you have the power wire plugged into the wrong place on the block, that's why you are blowing fuses.
I worked on a convertible Cadillac a few years back. The top was on the same circuit as the power seats. It had power all the time. I'd assume the Buick to be the same.
Yes Adam, like what Dave posted. The problem is if you have a lot of power stuff you need a splitter. Like if you have PW, PS, or? I think seats worked w/o the key. Buicks had an extra wire (pink) for PW that went to a relay. The relay was only live when the key was on. There's some pics and stuff on the PW page on George's site.
Yep, as soon as Frank said I was plugged into the wrong power port, I knew where it should go. It really sucks when you aren't the one who took the car apart...and there isn't a clear wiring diagram on the convertible top wiring. Got it fixed, guys. Thanks!!
