Guys, I am going to replace my abused original tank in my '72 GS455 shortly. Can I just use a '70 tank in its place to delete the vacum purge lines? My car is missing the canister, and the lines forward look rough. I am leaning towards a '70 tank, so that the rest of the '72 garbage can be dumped. The car is missing all the rest of its smog gear, like the canister and the smog pump. No compliance issues here in LA, and orginality is not a concern here. I am just looking for the cleanest, simplest solution here. Thanks, Rudy E
Thanks, Jim! I am sure that most of the remaining '71 and '72 cars have only bits and pieces of the original smog gear left. I imagine that this stuff was frequently trashed when new, much less 33 years down the road. My old car is never going to be a 100 pointer, just a street/strip car. I just need a clean, reliable, new tank with the basics to supply the motor with fuel. Thanks again, Rudy E.
Be careful when installing the 70 tank. The tank vent is located behind the pass side tire area. Also, you will need to slightly bend the filler neck up to be centered in the 71-2 rear bumper. You need to be careful when bending that you don't break the solder joint where the neck enters the tank. I guess you mean a new 70 tank. If so, Jim Lore (flynbuick) has stated they do not include a filler neck. The 71-2 new tanks include the filler neck. You will have to take your old tank and new tank to a rad shop so they can transfer your filler neck.
George, Actually I have found that the replacement tanks for the 71/2 cars sold thru various sources don't line the neck up properly with the lisc plate door access hole. They are way low. Seen this several times now, and we now test fit and bend accordingly when we install a tank in that vintage. Curious one day, I picked up a 70 tank and test fit it in a 72.. just to see if the neck lined up right.. it was nuts-on.. Vent lines won't be an issue. Just use the 70 vent, and use a hose long enough to wedge it between the upper part of the frame and the body, as the later car will not have the holder on the floor for it. Remove the canister lines that are there in the later car. There will be one bolt on that line on the RH side of the car that will be tough to get at, as it is on the top of the frame, near the upper shock mount. JW JW
JW, Just in case I get one of those gas tanks, what is the way (tool) you guys bend the filler neck to the proper height?
Carl the best way to do this is to swap the filler neck to the replacement tank. Yes, it will probably have to be professionaly done? Bill
I could be wrong but the difference in the necks between years may affect whether the cap will contact the flapper for the gas door and not let it rest on the rubbers stops.
Jim, I think you are correct.The length and angle,plus the cap itself are different and can cause interference with door and bumper itself. Best to swap necks. Bill
I had this issue with the original and replacement tank. The license plate hits the two tabs that stick out of my cap. I bent the tabs down and the plate seats against the rubber bumpers now. I wonder if my cap is an original. Can someone please post a pic of an original 1970 gas cap?
