Am I crazy for considering this? Local shops want $500-$600 to install a new top. Is this something many of you have tried?? Please post a few pros and cons. Or maybe tips if you were successful! Thanks!
If you keep the car outside or live where you have high humidity....go with a painted top. V.tops are rust magnets and always cause problems. There is more than meets the eye when doing a v.top. If someone in your area has done one or is going to do one, go watch to see how it is done.
George, Thanks for the heads-up. The top is original and starting to crack. 35 years old and it is smooth underneath, so I hope that means rust free as well! I really like the white top, white interior combo and will probably just bite the bullet and let a pro do it.
I have done a couple of them and some are not to bad but others can be a real time eating experience. IF you are not confident then I probally would not try it. I feel that anyone could do it if they take there time. Most important thing is to get it centered on the car.
I would pay someone to do it but you could save some$$$$ by taking the old top off yourself. Check with shop first on this. Just be careful with the stainless gutter trim easy to bend! I had a shop change a top years ago and the jerks destroyed my trim. :af:
Definately take the original top off yourself. Also take off all the trim (around the windows too if you can). Cleaning up the original adhesive youself will save you money too if you go the route of having someone else put the top on. I recommend 3M adhesive remover and a razor to scrape it off. Spray the 3M stuff onto the adhesive and let it sit for a minute or two then it'll come off like butter. Also it helps if you do this late afternoon/early evening when the heat is down and less sunlight so the cleaner doesn't evaporate as quickly.
I am just south of you about 2hrs. in Bloomington/Normal. I am right in the middle of replacing my top. Unfortunately I had a decent amount of rust, so I spent a weekend grinding/sanding down to the bare metal. Then repainted with POR-15. SO, last night I thought I would take some time and put the back strap on (under the rear windshield). I layed out the piece, cut to fit, sprayed the adhesive, then fit it to it. I came back about 5 minutes later to see that it had developed bubbles underneath it. Tried to smooth them out, couldn't, removed the piece to find the adhesive had bubbled the paint. That is where I have left it. -Dustin
Vinyl Top There is a fair amount of work involved in replacing a VT - it is well worth the expense, and aggrivation to have it done by professionals. You can probably save some time and $ by removing the old top and trim yourself and cleaning off the old adhesive along with any rust repair if needed (check with the shop), but the instalation of the new VT is best left to someone who has the experience and expertise to do a proper job. . . . just my opinion. :beer :TU:
Never done one before but plan to try one soon. If there are any rust issues, be sure these are professionally repaired. You don't want to waist $ doing the job again in a few years. The window channels require special attention as the can leak...not every upholstery man can do glass work and sheet metal repair. Choose those who you contract to help out very carefully!
I did it over 10 years ago. Everyonne thought I was nuts, but I had a good magazine which showed me helpful tips and it went on fine. YOu have to go slow and be careful, but it's not all that tough. Remember that the glue only will stick to itself. You spray the entire roof down, let the glue dry, then place the top on and position it. Only when you spray the underside of the top, will it stick to the roof. Find some good articles on the subject and don't be afraid!
I wrote a brief article on installing tops for the BPG about a year or two ago see if anyone in your area is a BPG member and see if they will share the article with you. :beer
Where can i find good articles or info on how to replace my vinyl top? as well as sources for the vinyl and glue?
The biggest P.I.T.A w/ removing and installing a new vinyl top is the removal of the rear window and the windshield. Even though generally easy its a real pain if attempting by yourself. IT helps to have a 2nd pair of hands around when removing the glass and putting it back in.. The front windshields if not original tempered glass will most likely break & spider if not removed properly. Your rear window should be solid tempered if its original and will not break easily upon removal. wieghs approximately 50 lbs and it helps to get the bright orange window suction cups from autozone for about $2 a piece. 2 will work well . I only used one. TAke notice of the pinch weld in the window reveal and make sure its even all around . you may need to grind it down to rid the rust and debris. ... DO NOT USE BONDO to repair the pinch weld. Either have it done professionally or fidn someone who is handy with fabrication and soldering and probally would only cost a $100 at the most to repair a badly damaged pinch weld.. before the initial tuck of the vinyl in the pinch weld make sure the pinch weld is primed properly or it will take longer for adhesive to set. If you have a drip rail like the skylarks do youll need fresh driprail chrome. You can reuse the stuff you removed but if you remove it the wrong way its good as garbage.(yearone carries a handy 4 in 1 tool for vinyl repairs and chrome trim) Best to get new drip rail chrome too. (which will require a different special tool to reapply). reapplied drip rail chrome looks like Sheeet IMHO. IF you're going to plug rust holes around the rear window that leak into your car i suggest either having some sort of metal backing tack welded to the back of whatever youre going to bondo.. I've seen shade tree guys back up the rust holes with jb weld then bondo right over it for a long lasting finish,, Lasted longer than any of us ever expected. The car sits outside still to this day 5 yrs later & exposed to the elements , no leaks or bubbling whatsoever.. Those bottom corners can be a real B#@ch to get smooth and perfectly contoured again. It can take a couple of days of flash sanding to get proportionate if a newbie. Don't sweat the time scale.. If you don't finish in a day you can just sit the window back in the reveal once dried and continue the next day. the installation of the vinyl top is a whole nother experience ..uzzled: This is the site i used as a reference even tho its for firebirds tehy're gm and used the same vinyl application methods. http://www.firstgenfirebird.org/firebird/FAQ/body/vinylroof_trim.html
oh and i use the term "bondo" as a general term for body filler compound.. I prefer woolsey 3 step polymers meant for marine applications.. Nothing is stronger or lasts longer. More $$ but well worth it. I DO NOT USE BONDO BODY FILL PRODUCTS. never would .. not on a buick anyways..:beer :beer
