Quote: Originally Posted by 69GSCAL The solenoid? vacuum canister? What the hell is that thing called? Someone give me a hand here! Anyhow, follow the steel vacuum line from your intake manifold under the car. It'll go into the , whatever that thing is called. You can adjust that canister by turning the case clockwise or counter. Give a slight turn (4-5 degrees, it's pretty touchy) and take the car for a spin. If it's better keep going to the point you want the car to shift, if it's worse go back the other direction. Be careful! After cruising you'll have a hot exhaust in your way. I've always received small burns on my foremarms in the past when doing this. Your saying you can adjust your shift point with that cannister? Cause all vacuum line are hooked, not sure if they pull enough, and the car is shifting way too quick into third. I have 425hp and need to keep the shift points longer when going from a dead stop. Thank god for torque. However, how can I test vacuum, it seems that my brakes feel like there is no power assist either. I have an SP1 intake with a mild cam, 10:1 compression. Is this set up killing my vacuum? __________________
It's a vacuum modulator And I'm thinking that the adjustable ones have a screw to turn someplace - I don't think just twisting it around is supposed to change anything.
Joe, It's the vacuum modulator. The stock ones are not readily adjustable, the aftermarket ones are smaller and brass colored. When you remove the vacuum hose, there is an adjustment screw inside the vacuum nipple. However, the adjustment is meant for minimum throttle and part throttle shift points, not Full throttle shift points. And the adjustment only varies the shift points a few miles per hour one way or the other. The governor controls WOT shift points. Is your kickdown connected and working? If not, that will make the trans short shift. If you think you are low on vacuum, get a vacuum gauge and test. Mild cam and SP1 intake? You are better off with a dual plane.
Intake is a TA perf SP1, the cam lopes slightly but is couple up from stock, nothing real wild. Would like to stick with that intake, it has given me nice numbers on the Dyno. As for the kick down, it is just the one, the one that goes from the pedal to the tranny. It seems to be adjusted according to that one diagram you gave me once. It too does not "kick down" real well. If and when it does, it shifts back into third before you can build any R's. I am thinking of picking up a vacuum tester on the way home. Do you measure the vacuum at idle? Cause I am having problems with the brake booster maybe. I was just thinking of swapping the two since they have what the other needs. (2 much vac vs. no vac.)
Modulator vs. govenor Like larry said, at WOT vacuum disappears and the govenor is in charge. This is what you need. http://store.summitracing.com/partd...925134+4294839071+4294849137+115&autoview=sku They work great. :TU:
Totally agree you are now at the point where the GOVERNOR needs attention. FWIW----after spending a LOT of time under my vehicle--1) If you raise the passenger side rear of the car a LITTLE you can avoid losing a lot of tranny fluid,2) If you get the gov kit try leaving the springs alone and just work with the weights to set your shift points--go slow--RECORD all your data so you dont waste your time repeating an exercise. Your exhaust pipes are going to be HOT and you will be working close to them. Pete
Yes you must sit and smoke with da Guhvvenuh! Bloody good~ De Guhvvenuh tells dat the vacum modulator is only good for 2 to 4 mph shift increment adjustments anyways...not @ WOT :rant:
Larry, once again, thanks, one more thought Measured the vacuum last night, it is right around 13. I am assuming this may not be enough. I have read that the brake power booster needs at least 16, this must be causing the "no power assist feel" and the short shifts. Do you know of any other tricks I could do to create a little more vacuum? I do also have an after market modulator, it is small and brass. The trans was rebuilt and beefed up, but it from an olds 455 guru. Is there a no power assist master cylinder I can pick up, and the tranny, should I just shift manually or get some do dads to fix this? All input and similar experiences will be helpful.
10" is enough for power brakes. Your booster may be leaking. What are your minimum throttle shift points(just idling down the road)? You can adjust them with the modulator. If your kickdown is hooked up and functional, you must modify the governor for higher wide open throttle shifts.
switching to different kickdown, from pedal to carb tv? Thanks to the WIZ and his pics of the kickdown to the gas pedal helped, however, it may be too long do to a swap. Can you switch this style kickdown to the adjustable kind that goes to the carb, and would this help my overall shifting problems including WOT downshift. I have plenty of vacuum. Seems to shift real quick (3rd by 30 or is this normal) could be all in my head do to 500+ lbs. of torque and still pulling, but when I kick it down, stays in second gear for about one second, should stay in the lower gear longer? I did bark em' at 70 however before it up shifted. Love the power I have, just need to figure this out to enjoy all of my hard work.
Picked up some new weights and springs for the governer from PONCH. Will swap them out to see what happens. Still not enough vacuum for the brakes? Will post pic for potential problem and report back on the weight swap.
Explanation. What does this vac tree do (electrical on top,) and could it be a potential loss of vac? I have two lines connected (dist. one,) top one plugged, but there is one port on the side that I am not sure of (upper of three,) the nub is not long enough to connect anything to, not sure if it is even functional. Or is it to remain open, nothing was connected on the old motor?
Joe, that is part of the transmission controlled spark advance. Completely useless unless you are doing a concourse restoration. All you need is a single line from the carburetor to the vacuum advance cannister, your choice, ported or manifold vacuum. Pull that thermovacuum switch out of the intake and plug the hole or use it for a temperature gauge sender. Save the switch, someone who is doing a concourse resto will want it.
Thanks, I thought it was a little redundant. Just tried to hook everything back up the exact same way as orig., alot of the wiring is the same with the Auto meters now in place. Could do a lot of "clean-up". I will run the line straight from the carb to the dist. Thanks again almighty one. For sale 1 transmission controlled spark advance?
Just a follow up, some info for someone down the road. After 7 times taking the governor out and trying different combo's with the weights and springs, I finally got it. I cannot believe how easy it was to find the right shift points. Obviously I can tweak it more, but very happy with the results. B&M Gov. kit. and a quick run down, thanks for the crash course Ponch. Results with a 3.50 gear is the #3 and #4 weights, along with one "yellow" and one "green" spring. By fixing this, it also improved my throttle kickdown and low speed shifting as well. It has made the car alot more enjoyable.
