I am looking for adjustable pushrods to use with my stock rockers non adjustable. I have some ticking on my passengerside that is very anoying to me. I first used pushrods from autozone when I did my engine rebuild. The pushrods ate up the rockers on the driver side too big of ball stud and too long I guess. So the sound was coming from the driverside. Ok I put the stock pushrods back in the balls are worn a little and now the tapping stop on the driver and is coming from the passengerside. The tapping started after I got out on the road with the car after swapping the original's back in. Could it be that the assymbly needs retorqing on that side. I have heard that that with adjustable rockers cam has to be on base circle what about nonadjustable rocker assy? I will check that first before spending the money on adjustable pushrods. The cam was custom grinded so the geometetry could be off, thats why adj. pushrods may be needed. Keep your fingers crossed. My engine runs good and pulls like a mule, it just has that anoying ticking that messes up the sounds of my pipes when I am setting still in traffic. I luv to see people look at my ss because of the engine tone, not knowing it powered by a buick engine. Top Secret Info.:beer
TA also sells adjustable pushrods. FYI: If you took more than .030 off the head and/or block, you need to run adjustable valve trains. so that may be one cause for the ticking.
Ok folks I got access to 74 skylark gs with a 350 in it. Does it have adjustable valvetrain. If so, can I keep my pushrods and just change the rocker assy. My engine is a 66' 340 which oils through block not the pushrods. I would like to leave it the same becuase it oils really good. Is this something that can be done with easy? Thanks Juliano No:
a 74 350 would not have a adjustable valvetrain. Adjustable valve trains usually came on cars that had solid (not hydraulic) lifters.
I recommend adjustable pushrods any time you have made any major change to the block. If you change cams, change the push rods. If you deck the block, change the push rods. If you mill the heads, change the pushrods. I have learned the hard way just this last week that having the wrong length push rods can take out your cam and essentially your engine. I will be buying a set of adj. push rods. I talked to Smith Bro. and they make the adj. push rods that TA sells. So find out who sells them cheeper and buy them.
I can't remember perfictly because I didn't write the prices down, but I think that Smith brothers wanted $129 for their set and TA wanted $149 for theirs. That is for the 5/16 rods, not the 3/8. The 3/8 would probably be to big for 72 heads which is what I have. The 5/16 I have now are very close to the rubbing point on some of the valves but not all. Smith Bro. opens at 7:00 am Pacific time and I will give them a call to confirm the price of their push rods. If any one would like I can check the prices for you as well if you want some thing other than 5/16. If not you should feel free to call them your selves at (800) 367-1533. If I get the chance I will post pics of what happened to my engine. It's not pretty. I just hope the majority of it is salvageable.
Okay. Smith Bro. sells the 5/16 adj. push rods for $133.60 plus shipping. They say shipping usually runs about $8. You can also get them from postons if you live on that side of the country and want to get them faster. I don't know what Postons charges for theirs. Good luck.
Hi there, I have a 340ci 1966 that I just put pushrods from poston in, engine isn't in car yet but turns ovr by hand ok, I didn't skim anything, block or heads, but anyway, I am in Scotland, UK and we have a lot of Buick 215 (Rover V8)engines used over here, I'm sure you have access to them too, but, when Rover bought the rights to produce the 215 in the UK as the rover 3500cc they did away with the hydraulic lifters and put adjustable rockers with solid lifters in. There are many outlets for aftermarket and performance parts for the rover engine in the States where you could get a set, or try a search on roverv8 or mgbv8 these will help you source some. OOPS! The reason I'm telling you all this is because the lifters, rocker shaft, rocker arms, valve springs, cam shafts, timing cover timing gears, water pump, and rocker covers and some other parts all are interchangeable with the 300ci and the 340 ci. The push rods don't fit as the 300 and 340 block is taller than the 215, but all else is the same, cheers Louis
I use Smith Brothers adjustables in every engine I build, also stock Buick aluminum rockers, never use the Rover parts. The 200,000+ mile 215 in my Vega now, spins 7,200 rpms, lots of time at those rpm's, and not one pushrod problem, Smith Brothers adjustables with bigger Corvair valves, Isky stiff springs, BIG hydraulic cam. The new engine for it will be a bored and stroked rover 4.6 crossbolted block, P76 leyland 3.500 stroke with 3.766 bore, H beam rods and Chevy pistons, and the same configuration on the 300 heads the 215 has, and the very same Smith Brothers 200,000+ mile Smith Brothers adjustable pushrods, direct from the old engine to the new one.
Ignitionman u have confensed me to try the smith brothers pushrods. On a side note tell me what is in the small HEI conversion distributor that allows people to use full 12Volts. I believe chevy made small Hei distributors didn't they. Send me a PM when u get a chance. I know you do not like the pertronix system which is what I am using it works real good, but the hei would burn the gas better. I got the pertronixs with a distributor I bought on ebay and decided to use it, because I hate changing pionts. That was a side note. On the topic of adjustable pushrods is there a link to show how to adjust them. It will be my first time using them. Also do they stay in place after everything has been tighten down or can they come alose in time.o No:
