what are all you sprayers using out there for your compressor setups? i've got a 60gal 10cfm @90psi compressor but no other accessories. what should I be using for occasional paint work and other air tools in reguards to a dryer, moisture trap, and a filter. and is there anything I should avoid? -nate
I use a DAD500 by Devilbiss. Pricey at $500 but worth it. Sharp and a few other companys make some that look like they are pretty good. Plan on spending a few hundred at least. And your compressor is really just a little low on the cfm for complete refinishes(Depending on weather you use hvlp or conventional spray guns.) ok for smaller work. You definately need something though. dont use raw air or you will surely be repainting whatever you paint. As far as air tools, I just oil mine. I'd bypass the costly filter for regular tool use, as maint. on it isn't cheap. About $80 for a "tune up kit". Why blow clean pure air through a tool that needs oil?
Nate--you might look at some of the filtering items at TP Tools--they offer a whole slew of these from Motor Guard, as well as Sharp, Devilbliss, etc. They sell a set up that utilizes a regulator and "toilet paper" type roll filter that is pretty good for "home brew" type use....maybe add in one of their moisture seperators ahead of this set up. As Darren mentioned--if you are doing priming and/or painting on the outer body you will want a more professional type system. Try to run a lot of iron pipe from the compressor to your hook up....PVC and air hose tend to just keep the heat in the air...the iron pipe will act as a radiator of sorts and help drop the air temp some as the compressed air moves towards your air hose hook up point. You can get the iron pipe at Home Depot and Lowes so that part is relatively easy(they will also cut the pipe and re-thread the ends for you free as you will need some pieces that are not standard length). Look at TP's website and they give a suggested schematic for running pipe, pipe dimensions, etc. Good basic stuff for DIY'ers. TP is not the cheapest around but they tend to have better prices (and more selection of painting, filtering,etc stuff) than Eastwood. Here's one of the TP Tool (Motor Guard brand) setups I mentioned--check out their site for more info: http://www.tptools.com/product.asp?...No=2&mscssid=UJGCN50BSJJ29KWLGRSG28BNJF4LDXC9 NOTE: In the description of the setup in the link they mention "most professional painters use this setup".....I think they are wrong....most PROFESSIONAL painters use the setups LIKE DARREN MENTIONS! OK--so TP has a little sales pitch added to their description and these are good filters, but don't take everything they say as gospel.
Well, there are actual air dryers, but they are massively expensive and large. But it only took painting a hood twice, with fish eyes like crazy both times, to get me to get the most expensive name brand air control unit I could find. Iv'e used Devilbiss guns from day 1, so I figured a filter from Devilbiss should be a good invetment. That isn't where you want to try to save money. I'm happy with it.
any experience with the disposable decidant<sp) dryers? for the little bit of painting I do, they maybe worth it instead of the larger dryer. also I'd go with the standard filter for all tools and maybe the Coalescing Filter after that for most tools. then with paint go with the disposable ones. http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/...?storeId=6970&productId=200319833&R=200319833
The desacant filters work great for a short period. The cheapest I have found them is at Harbor Freight. Around $7 each is not bad. Sure beats $500 if your not painting a whole car. Ingersol Rand has a really good water trap that is around $30. Again well worth the expense if you plan to use your air for any thing. I hate to disagree with the advice above about using cast iron pipe. Sure it will bring down the tempreture of the air and help to remove the condensation but it will also rust very quickly and add further contamanents to your air. Instead use copper tubing which will not corrode. You want to have at least 30 ft of pipe to cool down the air. I ran my pipe along the cealing back and forth to get my 30 ft. before going into the water trap. If you plan to do much painting do what others have suggested and get a good air drier system for your compressor. Good luck
I have the $30 filter from Harbor freight and for the money, it does an excellent job. I use it in the body shop, as I often spray primer in there, and have not even replaced the element. (I have cleaned it several times) So maintenance cost is about zero, and have in the past painted cars with it. I'm even contemplating installing one of those right at the compressor for the paint booth, just to lessen the maint. on the bigger unit. The disposables you mentioned aren't meant to filter raw air, but to compliment a better filter. I use the whirl wind filter at the gun. The more you filter, the better, but as in the original post, I think for small, occasional jobs, the $30 filter from Harbor freight would suffice. :TU: Good luck[/QUOTE]
hmm... i somehow lost a post..... i would have been using one of the disposable decidant after other filtration. (inexpensive ones from harbor for example) then when spraying good paint use the disposable ones as well as the pre filters. -nate
Yes Nate. You must use a Good Trap before using the cheaper disposible desacant filters. Every thing you can do to help remove moisture from your air line will give you better results while painting and during normal air tool use. You must install that copper pipe, and don't use 1/4 in. if you can avoid it. Use the same size pipe as the outlet of your compressor. Remember the smaller size you use the more of a volume drop you will have at the end of the line. Good luck PS Nate I went to the site link above in one of the other posts and they had this to say about metel pipe. I think they may have a point. I did use copper pipe and have had no problems but I wanted to list this here any way. Use Black Iron Pipe only. We do not recommend galvanized metal pipe, as galvanization can come off the inside of the pipe, clogging separators and regulators. Do not use plastic pipe, as plastic will not help cool the air; and glued joints often separate. Avoid copper tubing, as it is easily damaged; and soldered joints can come loose under pressure (Safety Hazard). Use 1/2" pipe for up to 75 feet of horizontal runs of pipe from your compressor. Use 3/4" pipe for horizontal runs of over 75 feet. Just so you know the company I work for uses the copper pipe and has no problems.
