Due to Fram stories I read here, I swithced the Fram PF25 oil filter on my 455 for a AC PF24 and the oil presure went from 10 to 25 hot, more than double. There was only a few hundred miles since the last change too. I couldn't find any AC filters in stock around here as everyone pushes Fram, so I picked up a dozen from e-bay for $25 plus $12 shipping, 3 bucks apiece delivered. Not too bad a price. I will never again use Fram oil filters. I've always heard how bad they were, but until now, I had no proof. Keith
Keith, I paid almost $15 for an AC oil filter when I did the first oil change on my truck. I had no idea the Fram's were that bad but I wanted to use a genuine part on it. All the chain stores here had Fram too so I just got the AC from the first independent parts store I came to. I think the stealership would have cost less. I'll be genuine on anything I can on this truck but would use a WIX if I needed to. I've heard good things about them. Ken
i too switched to a pf 24, my pressure is a steady 20 at hot idle,my gauge needle is steadier now. no more fram filters ever!!
AC is good. Wix is good. Hastings is good. I think the reason Frams lower the oil pressure is that they are made to trap too small of a particle and it winds up restricting the oil flow. Total overkill.
Back when I was young and had just bought my GS I had used a fram and the oil pressure was weak on my car so a friend shimmed my oil pump up. We had great oil pressure then at 5500 rpm the oil filter ballooned up and then ended up breaking at the seam before I found it. Lucky me I was facinated with my new guages, and saw the oil pressure drop to ZERO so I clicked it off. I have used the AC brand ever since 1977 now. And actually on the big engine I use the K&N brand replacement now.
Eos? What's E.O.S.? I use a WIX Filter and Mobil-One Synthetic. I also noticed a drop in pressure with the Fram. I only used it because I had it left over from the previous owner of my car. I thought I should use it up. Mike
Not anymore boys.. EOS, produced after Jan 1 2004, no longer has zinc in it.. EPA concern I am sure.. As soon as I depleted my stock of it which I bought in 2003 (go thru a couple cases a year), I switched to Crane Cams break-in lube, which still has zinc. You should too, for breaking in a new motor. Next post we talk about filters and oil. JW
Eos So why add EOS to the oil? Attn: Jim Weise. Do you use the Crane-Cams break in lube after every oil change? I also might be taking a trip up to see your opperation in Minnesota soon. I'll call you before I do. Thank's; Mike
Also.. Doug is right, Fram filters are too fine, my dyno operator reports that it is not uncommon on a new engine, with a Fram filter on it, to not make it thru break-in without losing oil pressure. A number of times they have switched oil filters, and everything was fine again. Also.. virtually all passenger car motor oils, designed for gasoline engines, no longer has the anti-scuff and anti-wear additives in them anymore, because most modern car engines have roller followers or roller tappets. We use Shell Rottella T oil now, in 10w 30 for the street stuff, and in 15-40 for the motors with the bigger clearances. It's diesel oil, and has a host of anti-wear additives in it. Otherwise we use racing oil.. as it also still has the additives. Synthetic is fine too.. if you don't mind paying the extra money for the minimal benefit it will have in most of our cars. Most of our cars are driven in warm weather, with only moderate loads on them. Even if your out pounding on it, conventional oil, in a correctly built motor, is all you need. What you do need to do, if you have a cam with a moderate to heavy lope at idle, is change the oil every 1000 miles. Changing the oil is about removing the acids that form in the oil, from partially burned fuel getting past the rings. Dumping the oil removes that acid content. I pick my Rottella up by the case at Walmart.. comes in a case of 4 1 gallon jugs. It's not the cheapest oil, but a good price on a good product. It is exactly what goes in every new motor here, from the $5K resto motors, to the $20K race jobs, and everything in between.. If there was a better conventional oil to use in new motors, I would be using it. JW
EOS used to have zinc in it.. which is the major anti-scuff/anit wear additive that was taken out of passenger car motor oils a while back. That's why Dennis Manner used to say add it with every oil change, when using passenger car motor oil. And no, I don't recommend using additive with every oil change.. I recommend using the correct oil. See the post above. Break in lube is just that.. your "overfeeding" it with anti-wear additives, to get that new flat tappet cam broken in.. there is no need to use it on roller cam motors. And once the flat tappet cam and lifters (solid or hydraulic) are living together nicely, the excessive anti-wear additives are not needed. JW
I thought something was up with the new oils..........it just doesn't have the body the older stuff had. Anybody ever cut open a fram oil filter? I did.......the ends really are made out of cardbourd and they are held together with glue. :spank: :bglasses:
Great post. This is one reason I love this board. Thank you Jim Weise and everyone who has contributed.
Jim any idea if there is a way to tell if the EOS i have now has the Zinc or not? i have had it almost a year.
Filtration Everything on the railroad at BNSF has either Baldwin or Wix filters on it. From locomotives costing $2.5 mil. to maitenance equipment. There are some realy BIG filters out there. That oil quality list we had a couple of years ago showed only one brand consistently in the top three in all catagories---Shell and Shell Rotella. --and we thought the Dutch only made fine cigars... (a yellow smile with a cigar would fit here)
I use a lot of WIX filters but have been sticking with an AC so far on my new truck. I have been using Shell Rotetta in it though. I think in time I may go with the Wix oil filter but I guess I'm just set on keeping it all genuine for a while! Ken
