Are you talking just the pulley or the whole balancer??? The balancer should just be able to be slipped off after the balancer bolt is removed...It may need some persuading...It isn't pressed on like the Chevy's...
I mean the pulley. I guess a better question is, what's the best way to keep the crank from turning as I try to loosen the balancer/pulley bolt?
tools one way is to fill a cylinder with nylon rope (make sure its on the compression stroke) what I did was to take an old Vbelt and a large cresent wrench I fed the belt thru the hole in the cresent wrench then cynched it around the pully and with the hand holding the wrench i held the old belt. and you push the wrench in against the belt fold it over a little bit and it will hold the pully and keep it from moving. you maybe able to wrap the old belt around the wrench to keep it from slipping too. here is a lousy drawing of it
hmmm...Now I'm confused... edit...Not about Nate's drawing, okay a little bit!!! I guess we were typing at the same time!!! p I do understand Nate's way, just never thought of that one!!! The pulley is bolted to the harmonic balancer with 6(I think) small bolts...The harmonic balancer is bolted to the crank with one big bolt... If you are talking about the one big bolt into the crank, there are several ways to do it...Easiest way(but some don't like doing it this way...Something about it being bad on the thrust bearing), is to use a really powerful impact wrench and just go to town on it...If the motor is still in the car, another way is to remove the torque converter inspection cover(if it's an automatic) and use a really big screwdriver and put it into one of the teeth of the flexplate ring gear and keep the motor from turning over while you loosen the big balancer bolt on the front...Obviously, you need two people for this one... Another way is to remove the spark plug in #1 cyl and feed some nylon clothesline cord into the cylinder...You would need to find TDC and then rotate the motor clockwise past TDC so the piston is on it's way back down the cyl...Feed the line into the cyl, and then rotate the motor back counterclockwise until the motor locks up from the cord being stuffed in the cyl...Then use a breaker bar and large socket on the big balancer bolt...Once you break the bolt loose, then just barely snug it up to rotate the motor clockwise again so that you can remove the nylon line from the cyl...Then a sharp hit ccw on that bolt will loosen it so that you can remove it... Anyone else chime in if I've given bad advice...I'd also like to know any other ideas that people may have...
I just put a breaker bar and socket on the balancer bolt, then brace the end of the breaker bar against the floor on the drivers side of the car, pull the coil wire, and crank the motor in short bursts. Breaks it loose every time. To tighten back up, use one of the preceding methods.
my way my way only provides enough torque to hold back the removal of the 6 bolts holding on the pully. when i removed my large bolt.. I took 2- 3/8's bolts and stuck them into free holes of the harmonic balincer and put a pipe in there that was about 4 ft long and used a breaker bar. on the bolt. though now i think about it. that was prolly a bad idea but it worked for both removal and instaliation.. Nate
There is a tool called a "flywheel holder" which has a handle and a spring-loaded extension and locks into two spaced-apart teeth of the flywheel. This creates a powerful grip on the flywheel. Obviously, this would require two people in your case. Eastwood Company sells them, as do specialty auto and marine tool suppliers.
