Yep, Standard DR2270XP on the points. DR 70 on the condenser. Adjust the points to .016 on the high step of the distributor points cam. Start the car and adjust them to 30 degrees of dwell. Then adjust the timing
If you want to check spark at the points, turn the ignition on and open and close the points manually with a screwdriver. If the car has been sitting, the points may need to be filed a little
Tried that and I failed lol there's a guy in town that sold me a brand new hei distributor for 20 bucks I'm just going that route. @buick64203 your well versed with these cars. There is a 401 nailhead not far from me and he wants 50 bucks for it. My question is the swap hard? And I've been going back and forth with the 401 and a 502 big bock.
All swaps are hard. You run in to unexpected problems when transplanting an engine that is different from what you have. That especially applies to a Big Block Chevy (502). If you install that HEI, make sure you replace the resistance wire so the HEI gets full battery voltage.
No idea how much you know or don't know about automechanics, and older cars, so I do not want to insult you nor talk over your head. First, I am glad to see another younger person involved. Now to the specifics. I put a nailhead in a '64 skylark, you do need several parts that were 1 or 2 year only. Exhaust pipes. Rear sump oil pan. Frame pads, engine pads and motor mounts (motor mounts might be used on more than the few years). Battery brackets from a 65 GS to move the battery from passenger to driver side, fashion your own move to the trunk or rout the positive cable under the top of the core support. Helps to have the fenderwell mounted horn relay and positive lug for wiring purposes. Correct or modified front and engine harnesses. Larger radiator with inlet on passenger side, and outlet on driver side. (if you use a GS unit, you need to fashion bottom support brackets. Shroud and top support plate. Nailhead bolt pattern (auto)transmission, or bellhousing/adapter (manual). (and important, is the engine "a good solid unit ready to go, or a rebuild and if so, who is going to do it, and what endgame is in mind?) Need to do all the homework, prepare for time to locate and obtain all the parts. Mine took me a year from putting on jack stands, and pulling everything (but the body off the frame) and replacing the engine, transmission, rear, suspension, brakes, lines wiring harness, fuel and brake lines, power brake booster and master cylinder, fuel tank, steering gearbox, rebuilt the dash, steering column, shifter, swapped out/in pedals, installed hydraulic clutch and electronic ignition. But, I knew what I was going for, did the research and did get most of the parts ahead of time, while I still drove the car, so it was not down for too long. Thanks to my Uncle Sam for teaching me about scheduled maintenance, planning, and T.O. Research. (and it helped being born into the scene) Most important is to figure out what you want from it in the end. For some, the journey is the most enjoyable and changing paths along the way, even to the point of abandoning one project and going another. For others, the end in mind is as solid as Gibraltar and you will move anything in the way of that goal, time and money are not an issue along the way. It can be whatever you want, but enjoy it, do not let it "own you". I have seen folks get so frustrated, lose the joy, and walk away from the hobby. Looking forward to where you go with this.
I am right at where you WERE Mike... The 455/T-10 swap on mine was/is going pretty well except for being old and fat haha. The '64 Special had a V6 and a 3 on the tree. Just had the MU in and out this week and all the OEM Z bar stuff lined up on the money. Even the crossmember frame holes were perfect. If Johnny wants a nail head and a 4 speed, all bets are off. Unobtanium doesnt even equate here. Personally with this vintage, going from the more modern front distributor 300 down to a nailhead or a BBC, Id go the BBC route. Nailhead stuff is getting ridiculous $$$ and availability, well??? Id really rather have a Buick, hence the 455... ws
@trunk thanks for the advice. That's what I was kinda looking for the 502 is ready to go wear as the 401 I have no idea but for 50 bucks idk I I could pass on it. But the 2 year only parts how hard are they to source? And good old uncle Sam and his TM manuals lol. I love big blocks but with big blocks comes big money. And I need to save for floor pans and trunk pan and quarters. I can never make up my mind lol my nova took 6 months to finish idk why this car is taking me so long to get going.
Well I got her fired for a solid 2 seconds and then this happend. Now when I try to crank it it does nothing and the purple wire gets warm as ****. So I know the purple wire goes from the ignition switch to the neutral safety switch then to the bulk head then to the s terminal on the starter. I'm just frustrated at this point.
I'm guessing (at whats left of it!), thats the fender mounted junction block? Thats a lotta amps going through yours! Youre gonna hafta make some mods here... The POS. battery cable needs to run direct to the starter from the battery. Period. All the accy. stuff comes off the starter via 2 fusible links to the upstairs. The '64s dont have any fusible links, only a bi-metalic contact in the headlight switch for light shorts. Thats only a stop gap as when it cools down, it'll close again and yer back to square one. otherwise, the fuse block is wired hot from the starter through whats burned on yours. When I get to that point, I am gonna ad a 50-60 amp block right there on the fender. Also consider a ground (chassis) wire from the battery post to the fender. Sometimes antique stuff needs upgrading... ws
Where'd ya source the 120A breaker? Is that really a breaker or a fuse? FWIW 120 Amps is a hell of a lot of capacity and not much protection. All the lights on that car (brights on) probably run 20-25 amps. If you have a 42 amp alternator, the main off of that should be a 50A. Stay away from spade connectors to the holder too. Use a mechanical connection with a ring connector and screw. You can thank me later. Get one with a weatherproof cover on it. ws https://www.wirthco.com/maxi-blade-fuse-blocks
O"Reilly had it for 30 bucks. Its running the power wire from the starter and alternator to the bulk head.
No one sells the bulk head connectors. The "inside" (passenger compartment side) is the back of the fuse block and can be obtained with several wiring harness manufacturers, but the plastic used is very flexible and you might have trouble getting a good connection. The "engine compartment side" (what I think you are asking about, and no one makes them) is made of two separate "backshell" plastic connectors where the pins are inserted from the engine and front harness. These get old and either brittle or flimsy over time and may or may not hold to the fuse block side. I had to drill small holes on top and bottom of both side of the fuse block and the firewall connectors and used small tie straps to pull the two together to make a good and secure connection. (I also made small wood blocks and grooved them to act as a brace for the fuse block as the softer plastic deformed and did not make good connection) Most of the harness manufactures will reuse several of the connectors that are one or two year specific and not made by anyone. (they ask you to send either the existing harness to K-ball the parts, or ask you to send specific connectors) I asked Loren Alexander of 65GS.com to help make my harness as I was adding a GS drivetrain to my 1964 Skylark and also added several mods to the harnesses but wanted it all to "look" factory and well built. The finished products were 110% of expectations.
The one in the engine bay has a hard time staying on. I was just curious if you were able to buy them.
I will try and get pics of what I did for mine. (drilled holes, tie straps and wood blocks). It's not "per tech data", but it works, so I hate to post it as a "legitimate fix". LOL
I may be making a trip to the '65 being stripped for a few small pieces. Its 45 minutes away and the guy know what stuff is worth. If you are interested in the engine side of the firewall plugs (or he wont cut the wires) take the harness, ya interested? I grabbed these pics yesterday. This will be a one shot deal since its a 2 hour trip (round trip and time at the site). Let me know ASAP... It may be this morning!!! ws
@jonnytsunami15 If it were me, I would take both the engine harness and the front harness, complete. If the fuse block is good, I would get that as well. Then if you have a harness made, you will have the connectors that are no longer available.
