Im toying with the idea of a run of plastic battery cable blocks. I should have the CAD drawings of the prototype finished by next week and an estimate from a 3D printing company shortly thereafter. The only deviation from the original design is that Im going to split the part into two pieces vertically through the battery cable hole. That way, someone can lay their cable in place, sandwich it in between the two parts and install it in the metal bracket. Once installed, the bracket will keep both halves of the block together. I doubt it will need to be glued or secured together. What do you guys think?
there really isn't a lot of material to play with in that regard. the bigger the hole, the thinner the walls
From my conversations with Jason, it appears that the factory snaked the cable through the block and THEN crimped the cable end on. I have never seen this piece as my car never had one. I'm not sure it will accommodate my 2 gauge cable at all as there may not be enough material there to drill out or split open. I'll see what I can do when I get the one I bought from Wheelz.
I have done it both ways in the past with 2 ga cables.. reamed out the plastic block, or just left it out entirely, taped up the cable and starter harness, and just used the metal holder to keep it in place. JW
Jason, I am interested! I would like to see some picture when you get that far. Good Job! Great idea! Ron
Just got off the phone with the design guy. I should have the renderings in a few days. Then off to the 3-D printers for a quote. Im going to make only two or three for R&D purposes at first. Test fit them on my car(s) and make sure there are no unexpected issues as far as fit and material choice. Once Im satisfied with the prototype, I can get a run of them made. We're probably about 3 weeks out before the first batch is available barring any complications.
Larry, I just went through this with a 2 ga cable. I bought the cable from M&H, then learned I'd have to cut the lug off, snake it through the plastic block, and put a new lug on. Fiasco! Anyway, I did get it done, although it would make much more sense to send the block to M&H and have them put the cable through the block and then put the lug on. Here's what mine looks like: I used a 1/2" bit to ream out the block, then had to buy a cable crimper, new 90* lug with 5/16" hole for the solenoid, and heat shrink tubing. As you can see, 1/2" is a bit too big to ream it out without punching through the side of the block, but you really couldn't go much smaller and get the 2 ga cable to slip through the hole. Not noticeable once in the metal bracket though. Buick64203 has a great idea splitting that block so you can just insert a new cable without hacking both of them up.
First prototype in the manufacturing stage. The material is ABS plastic. My one concern is if the material will be able to withstand the temperatures. From my research, the block will have the same thermal properties as the insulation on the battery cable and wiring to starter which is around 176 degrees. Im thinking if the battery cable doesn't melt, this shouldn't either right? I really need to take some temperature readings of exactly how hot that area gets. They do make a "high heat" plastic but naturally, the price increases significantly.
Jason, If some of the members have a IR thermal heat gun. They can take some reading with there cars up to temp. I would do it but I don't have an IR thermal heat gun. Ron
Jason, I checked a book I have on wire and a standard coating on a 2 gauge battery wire should withstand 105 deg C or 221 deg F which I think would be standard for all wire. The PVC coating and ABS plastic starts to melt at 221 degrees F. I agree with you that the block material should withstand the same temp as the cable since the block is really a support and not a protector from heat. My 2 cents...