To be straightforward, my 92 Accord EX 5 speed will not idle when it gets to operating temperature. I'm out of leads.
My 97' ram had a similar issue and it ended up being the Idle Air Control valve. I'm not sure if the Honda uses a similar set-up to control idle. I couldn't find a repair manual on the online database I have for a 92, but the 93 2.2L uses and IAC valve to control idle. View attachment idle-control-system-description.pdf
I've actually taken the IACV off of the car, and cleaned the filter screen and put it back on. Should I just bulk up and replace it? (IYO)
Can you test the IAC? on my ram you could use a ohms meter and if it was below a certain value you knew it was toast. Of course the IAC for my truck was like a $10 part so wasn't too much hurt on the wallet.
And I'm assuming you checked the engine for vacuum leaks already since you mentioned you're out of leads. The short answer is I don't ou: the manual for my truck says you just stick the probes of the ohm meter in to each of the IAC's plugs and set to to a particular reading. I pulled this off the interwebz not sure how helpful it'll be: 23.5.1 To Cause the IAC Valve to Fully Close If you want to test the IAC valve to make sure it will fully close down, you can temporarily unplug it. When you unplug the IAC valve the idle should drop to the base idle. When the car is fully warmed up, and is on base idle, all the air is being controlled on the idle bypass screw. If the idle air bypass screw does not seem to have total control over the idle, the IAC valve may not be shutting down completely, or there is another source of unmetered air. 23.5.2 To Cause the IAC Valve to Fully Open If you want to test the IAC valve to make sure it will fully open, you can temporarily ground the wire that goes from the IAC valve to the ECM. One wire will read steady battery voltage, and one will have varying volts. The varying volts wire is the one you should ground. When you ground this wire, the idle should increase significantly. You can also test the 2-wire IAC valve winding with an ohmmeter. Make sure there is no continuity between the winding and the case. Check for approximately 11.5 ohms on the winding itself. http://www.gassavers.org/f7/more-than-you-ever-wanted-to-know-about-the-honda-iacv-6478.html ---------- Post added at 06:23 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:21 PM ---------- Wowza! I just checked NAPA out of curiosity and a IAC for your Honda is like $200!!!:shock:
I really appreciate your help. I tried the whole "unplug the IACV temporarily" thing earlier this week. The car died. Not drop to base idle, died. I'll play with the ohm meter, if anything, it'll satisfy my curiosity. :grin: I guess I'm going to go fish for a Honda forum. Thank you! ---------- Post added at 06:33 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:31 PM ---------- That is a wonderful link, thanks again.
If I'm not mistaken, the 92 has coolant running through the iac, the temp of the coolant is what denotes how far open/closed the iac is. If there is even a small air pocket in the cooling system, it will migrate to the iac, causing the symptom you have described.
To confirm, yes it does have coolant running through it. Sounds like I should bleed the cooling system then. (It's almost time for anti-freeze anyway) Thank you, BuickRat.
