best 70 GSX front brakes and rotors and source

I want to replace the brakes and rotors on my 70 GSX. My local NAPA, Autozone, Advance Auto and other local parts shops don't have anything for this application. I'm looking for advice as to which are the best replacement or upgraded rotors/pads and where would be a good place to purchase them, probably online. Thanks for any info. Paul

 

Actually they are incorrect and as usual don.t know what they are talking about. You have to learn what and what not to tell them on how to look up parts.<o></o>
<o></o>
Nelson<o></o>


---------- Post added at 01:20 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:16 AM ----------

<o></o>
Simple, this is from Autozone<o></o>
Duralast Gold/Brake Pads Front Part Number: DG052S<o></o>
Duralast/Brake Rotor Front Part Number: 5514 (X2)<o></o>
<o></o>
Nelson<o></o>


<o></o>
I like NAPA parts. From NAPA <o></o>
Brake Rotor & Hub Assy - Front - Ultra Premium<o></o>
Part Number: UP 85532 (X2)<o></o>
Product Line: NAPA ULTRA PREMIUM BRAKE PARTS<o></o>
Brake Pads - Front, Ultra Premium - OE Organic<o></o>
Part Number: UP UP728A<o></o>
Product Line: NAPA ULTRA PREMIUM BRAKE PARTS<o></o>




<o></o>

 

Thanks Nelson. This is super helpful!!! When I called, they fumbled around for a minute looking up parts on their computers and pretty much said 70's don't show having front disc brakes. It's ironic that one of those stupid NAPA TV commercials was just on where they advertise how they know everything about cars... go figure. Paul

 

anymore I just gibe them part numbers everytime i need something just for this reason.
if you dont they might give you a chevy intake or 455 intake and gasket set lmao
or same brakes pads are more expensive under buick skylark and cheaper under 79 camaro!
part store guys suck at their job minly due to them no knowing alot about old cars abut mainly due to he computer system sucking ass.

---------- Post added at 12:37 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:37 PM ----------

anymore I just gibe them part numbers everytime i need something just for this reason.
if you dont they might give you a chevy intake or 455 intake and gasket set lmao
or same brakes pads are more expensive under buick skylark and cheaper under 79 camaro!
part store guys suck at their job minly due to them no knowing alot about old cars abut mainly due to he computer system sucking ass.

 

I noticed one caliper is hanging up. Since I plan on buying new rotors and pads... since I need a caliper would I be better off upgrading to aftermarket calipers and rotors?

 

Caliper hanging up? There's a good chance you've got a collapsed hose. Good idea to replace those anyway if they're 40 years old.

 

I just bought reman capiliers from NAPA for my 69 GS. $23.00 each, look exactly like the originals

 

Do you have the 70 type no longer made? If so, do you want to have your stuff rebuilt or get repros that are not identical? You may want to save your origianl stuff even if you get repros.

 

I replaced all the brake hoses 7 years ago and they still look like new to me. What I meant by a caliper "hanging up" is when I apply and then release the brakes, I can feel one not releasing for just a split second. THis all started last fall when the booster did not work. The pedal was hard and I could hear the vacuum leak audibly. I bought a new one from Then and Now and installed it. It worked OK but I can't lock up the brakes, no matter how hard I push on the brake pedal. I inspected the front disc brakes and the rear drum brakes and saw nothing out of whack. I compressed the front calipers on the car with a c-clamp and the pistons moved. I want the car to have the best brakes possible and that's why I'll even upgrade the entire system if that's what it will take. Thanks for all the info. I'm thinking maybe a caliper (because of the "hanging up" feeling) is the culprit. When the brakes are applied the car does stop straight with no noise. Thanks, Paul

 

I would be looking for glazed rotors, drums, pads + shoes. When your booster went South, you had to use extra pressure w/o the power assist. If the rotors are glazed....like shiny, with no machining...then they won't grab. Same for the other stuff. You may no need new parts if you did them before. You can sand the pads and shoes...wear a dust mask in case they are asbestos. You can have the other parts turned slightly. Or....you can sand those, too. Just scuff them up. Hey....it's free to try it. I use Wagner Thermo-Quiets or named something like that. I think they have Kevlar in them.

 

Good idea! Thanks.

 

SAnd the rotors in a circular pattern, like small circles. The other stuff you can just straight sand. I've done it before to save good but glazed parts.

 

I'll give that a try. Thanks!

 

I would drive the car till the brakes start to act up, If it only does it when their heated up ? Then have a floor jack ready so when you pull in your drive way you can jack up the front end and spin each wheel and see if you find one or both that is hard to turn by hand { BE SAFE USE JACK STANDS}. Then open the brake bleeder on the sticking caliper. If fluid squrts out and the wheel frees up you need to check for a restriction in the brake hose or line. If it does not free up check for coroded/rusted caliper slide pins or a sticking caliper piston. Also if you suspect a defictive caliper you can rebuild your originals. I have seen some bad remans with beat up or rusted away banjo bolt seats that will leak. I would not part with the originals. Ever think about upgrading to somthing like,,,, http://www.summitracing.com/search/...GM-D52-Dual-Piston-Caliper-Kits/?autoview=SKU

---------- Post added at 03:39 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:53 PM ----------

Somthing else you might want to check, You posted this started around the time you replaced the Booster.
Check out booster push rod to master Cyl adjustment. See page 48 and look at the adjustment at the end of the push rod. I think your booster would have one. Found this on the net to give you a general idea, A partially enguaged pushrod could cause sticking brakes. As for the brakes not being able to lock up, You should check rear brake shoe adjustment. Improper adjusted rear brakes can also effect stopping ability. Just my .02
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/brake05.pdf

 

Thanks! I'll check this all out this weekend.

 

One other thing you can try. After driving the car a while, stop and feel the front wheels for heat. They should feel about equally hot. Do this carefully, they can get smoking hot if the caliper is hanging up.

 

As what Jim is talking about is the two piece rotor (70 only). NAPA can send your calipers in to get rebuilt but be prepared for a wait. Some of their rebuilds look correct and you could get them in and examine them to see if they meet your inspection. If your rotors are original and not thin or warped I would not replace them. Sometimes even almost new parts go bad so I would not rule out the hoses. You could collapse and expand your calipers a couple of times and bleed them to see if that helps. Open the bleeder when you collapse them to move in new fluid. Also pictures of the rotors would help id them.<o></o>
<o></o>
Nelson

 

Thanks for all the helpful advice guys! I finally got a chance to work on the car today. This all started with a vacuum booster going bad. I bought a new one from Then and Now and it came with 2 rods, a long and short one. I used the short one because it matched what was in the old booster. I didn't see any way to adjust those if I wanted to.

When I removed the calipers to check the pads... they were glazed and were a mirror gloss! I scuffed them off with coarse emory cloth to remove the glazing and also did the same to the rear shoes while I was at it. I did collapse and expand the caliper pistons a few times and put in new fluid. When I collapsed the piston, there was a lot of brake fluid spraying back in the master cylinder.

That was it! The brakes now are much improved and the brake pedal is not as hard as it was before.

Thanks again for all the advice. My issue is resolved and I didn't waste a lot of cash on parts I didn't need. I really appreciate everyone's great advice.

Paul

 

Good deal! I forgot to mention brakes need to be broken in a bit, even used brakes that have been sanded, but probably not as critical as new. Maybe 10 or 20 miles of normal stopping before you jump on them to lock them up. Other peeps have different ways to break them in. Glad you found the prob, that's what it sounded like...mirror/glazed rotors.