Here is the info on this new product. Testing is on-going, as is development of complete line/regulator kits for the most common applications. http://www.trishieldperf.com/prod04.htm We have these pumps in stock now. JW
Jim can i purchase one?are they available yet?i`d really like to get rid of my electric pump asap,please let me know. Thank you
Yep... They are available now.. although I have a few requests already, which will deplete my inventory, but no problem getting more.. I can have more ready to go in about a week. I just want to test on of these on both the run stand, and on the dyno, before they go out. I will do that early this week yet. I have two in stock right now, so those will go to the first customer's who complete an order with me. Paypal at jim@trishieldperf.com, or just send a check. $12 shipping to the 48 states. Thanks, JW
Jim,and these are good for my application without starvation?and will clear rollmaster with no mods?i also need the total if possible please. Thank you Jim.
According to my vendor, they feed an 800+ hp motor on gasoline, with the proper feed lines and tank pickup. Yes, it clears the rollmaster. I would suspect you will have no problem on your car George. This pump was designed 500+ HP street cars. Total cost would be $401 with shipping. (ya... I know.. $400 fuel pump.. :eek2: , but there is no in between from the cast $80 pump to this one, and I figured we would offer it, for those who would pay twice that to get rid of the dang noisy electric..) this is a NICE piece. JW
I completely understand,it doesnt look like a cheezee pump,i think i will purchase one this week,i thank you for the info Jim. thank you:TU:
Jim, would this pump work with Ethenol/Gas (E85)? I know its a form of alky but I was told is not near as destructive as methenol...
wow.. JW, can the stock Stage 1 metal fuel line from the pump to the QJ carb be used with this pump? J
Scott, No problem with the pump diaphram and valving for alcohol. The only issue would be the alcohol sitting in the pump for a long time, it will eventually start to corrode the alumium body.. that would be a concern if you were running straight methonal. I am not familar enough with the E-85 fuel to tell you if there would be corrosion issues with it also. Two possibilities exist here. We do have available a nickle plated pump body, which would eliminate this issue completely. But there wouild be an increase in cost on that pump, as it is normally built as a 14.5 psi unit, so I would have to put the different diaphram and spring assembly in it, for street use. But I think it's easier than that... Just the addition of a little fuel lube additive should allow no problem under normal driving periods, and then when you store it for the winter, just flush it thru with a little gasoline. No problem with the additional volume for the E-85.. this is the pump that is used by most Nascar teams.. It can flow whatever you need it to, up to well over 1000 HP.. on alky.. which is typically twice the volume of gas.. JW
Re: wow.. Not in it's stock configuration.. the outlet of the stock stage one pump is on the bottom, whereas this pump is out the side. So there would have to be some tube bending and flaring going on. But that is true of any pump, besides the stock STG 1 pump. JW
did some testing tonight Welp, We did some interesting testing tonight.. purpose of the testing was to see what the static fuel pressure was on this pump, to see if we would have to install a regulator with it. We used a couple of stock stage 1 pump's for a baseline. Motor tested on was a ported iron head 462, 413 cammed, 10-1 street piece.. that should put out right around 500 HP. Carb tested was a 950 Holley, prepped by Bigs.. Here is what we found. 1. Stock STG 1 pump, with return line plugged, will make between 9 and 12 psi at idle.. one was about 10 psi, and the other was 12... not good... if you have the return line plugged on your car, and occasionally it seems to run weird at idle, then it's blowing fuel by the needle and seat.. This was very surprising to me, since everybody and their mother has been plugging their return lines on these pumps for a long time, and in normal driving, and certainly in drag racing, you will prolly get away with it. Also, I have seen these stock pumps make 5.5 psi at idle with the return line plugged.. Both these pumps were brand new GM parts, so this leads me to believe that there may be some inconsistancy from pump to pump.. we certainly saw it. Unplugging the return line on one pump dropped the pressure at idle only slightly, so we suspect that pump to be faulty.. the other pump, which was put on to verify the data gathered from the first one, would drop the static pressure to a varying reading between 6 and 8 psi. Moral of this story is if you have the return line plugged on your stock stg 1 pump, and occasionally the car runs really funny at idle, don't be afraid to test your fuel pressure, and see if you need to put that return line back on.. Since I had two fuel pressure gauges hooked up, one before and one after the run stand's fuel pressure regulator, and I had a ton of pressure out of these stock pumps, that allowed us to increase the pressure gradually, .5 psi at a time, to see exactly where this car wouild push fuel past the needle and seat, and raise the fuel level in the bowls. We found that point to be right around 10 psi. Then we bolted on our new Billet pump and were very pleased to see this pump maintain a nice steady 8.5 psi at idle, and up to 3000 rpm, in a no load test. We now will add this data to what we gather during the dyno test of this motor, at which time I will run both the stock pump, and the new billet unit, to see what happens when we get a full load on the motor, and really start working the pumps. I am trying to determine if I have to tell the first two guys who bought the Billet pump, if they have to install a regulator.. I am hoping we can squeek by without one.. Here is a pic or of that motor, during testing, on the run stand.. I am in love with this thing's 38 psi of oil pressure at idle, and 82 after 3000 rpm.. gotta love it when a plan comes together.. Not to mention this one was a cam bearing eater, and we had it apart after it's light valve spring break-in, to visually inspect the cam bearings.. and they were wonderful..
more pics I found after we built the stand, that I prefer the oil pressure gauge sitting on top of the motor, as opposed to the one in the stand's control panel.. Like to keep and eye on the pressure, while I'm putzing with the carb and timing stuff..dd Eventually I will tee the gauge, and build a mount for the one gauge on the rear of the stand, and will hook the other one back up.. Just figured I would mention this, before someone saw the control panel gauge at zero, and say .. Hey, that motor has no oil pressure.. ou:
really love having this run stand... comes in real handy in our motor program... so we don't waste valuable time breaking in cams and changing valvesprings on the dyno.. That proceedure takes about an hour and a half, which really cuts into your testing time, during a 5 hour session. We just warm them up on the dyno, and starting making changes, to get the most HP out of these things. Gives us a good "bang for the buck" on the dyno. Here we are, changing valve springs, and visually insecting the cam bearings, after initial break-in.. I do this to every motor that we build.. it's a little more work, but a lot less than going to ST Louis to pick up this motor again, because it lost the cam bearings, and we could not tell that during run in and dyno testing.. And sometimes, you can't tell.. it takes 500 miles for the symptoms to show up.. And because I am just the paranoid sort.. ou:
Here is an interesting pic, one I see all the time, but I think it's the first time I ever took a picture.. This is after light valve spring break-in.. I have an old worn out set of TA dual springs, that we put about 500 passes on, in the race car.. I took those outer springs, and it's what we now use to break in the cam bearings.. yes, the cam bearings.. note how there is very little wear pattern on the cam, that won't come until we put the full load of the new springs on the cam. The key to getting cam bearings to live, beside the clearance issues is to use the camshaft to burnish the surface of the bearings on inital startup. Far and away, the most common time the cam bearings fail, is in the first 30 seconds of running. But once the cam burnishes the bearings, the will live a good long life. After we install the engine's new springs, we go thru another 15 minute run in period, then set all the distributor advance stuff, the carb, and inspect our System 1 oil fiter... when all that stuff checks out, we then go to the dyno, and put it thru it's paces. JW
boy does that look good! Jim, you can leave the billet pump on there if you need some "street" testing! :Brow: I promise I won't break it! Brian :grin: :grin:
Sorry Brian... those two pumps are already sold... We will see if your STG 1 pump can hang onto the motor on the dyno, but don't bet on it.. I should know tomorrow, dyno session is in the AM.. JW
Well, it never hurts to ask! Run that sucker as much as you need, if there are going to be any issues, I would like them to pop up now. But I truly feel that you have put your best effort in this and it makes me feel good about it. I never doubted for a minute that it would be as perfect as you could make it. There is always a chance of trouble with any motor and that is life, but if anyone could get it perfect it would be you! Anyway, now that I have sucked up some, I hope it doesn't give you a big head! :grin: :grin: I will be looking forward to tomorrow! It was cool to hear it run over the phone last night . When I get some extra cash, I may see about that new MSD setup I told you about. I am sure it isn't cheap!Check out the current issue of Hot Rod, they have a decent article about it. Brian :beer
