Block sanding primer what's next??

Discussion in 'Color is everything!' started by calilark72, Mar 17, 2013.

  1. calilark72

    calilark72 Well-Known Member

    So a body shop charged me 300$ to spot prime my worked spots and then prime 2 wet coats of medallion rubber seal rapid production light grey primer, and misted it with a nice black guide coat which really showed me what areas of the car needed a little bit more attention. The car was taped up nice as well couldn't beat the price I guess but now I'm gonna have to go back and play with a few areas and can get the same stuff in a rattle can online...so when Ive sanded all the base down and gotten everything straight what's next? Another coat of primer? Sanding with a 13 block 400 dry it's coming out how it should...but I 400 wet and tried 600 wet for ****s on a small spot it like shiny...especially with the 600 wet it's like gloss...what am I doing wrong here haha the body shop told me to wet 400 then wet 600 the car but I couldn't imagine anything sticking to it...help help and I'm pretty sure I should wait its only been a week since its been primered. How long should I really wait to start actually blocking it? I've done maybe a square foot of sanding so far but right away it didn't seem right so please anything would help
     
  2. rack-attack

    rack-attack Well-Known Member

    400 wont get a car straight - you should block it with 180 to get it level. work on the low spots, then shoot 3 more coats of primer and work down to 600. use as long of a block as you can, rounded dura block are great for concave surfaces. don't use rattle can primer if you want a decent outcome. It should have a gloss with 600
     
  3. calilark72

    calilark72 Well-Known Member

    Ok how long should I wait to start blocking it with 180?
     
  4. RACEBUICKS

    RACEBUICKS Midwest Buick Mafia

    24 hours if its catilized primer.
     

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