I believe the wire from the fire-wall-mounted blower relay (black w/ yellow stripe) is supposed to go directly from the relay to the blower motor. Assuming this is correct, I have a problem... It broke off on the blower side. (Blower never works, relay and resistor block are okay). Can anyone confirm where and how the blower motor power wire is physically routed? If I'm not wrong, it is in the wire harness that also goes to the resistor block mounted to the AC blower box. This black wire w/ yellow stripe is about the right length to go to the blower under the fender (who thought of *that* design?). I think I have to pull the fender to fix it. I'd like to confirm where the power wire to the blower motor physically enters the blower box to connect ot the motor before I pull the fender. Thank you.
It does not go into the box. Look with a mirror to see if there is any wire left to the blower. Although the manual says take off the fender, you may be able to disconnect the inner fender, insert a wood block at the bottom and slide the inner fender down enough. NAPA etc sells the motor. You may want to apply 12V metered by a power supply to see if the motor is shot which may affect your approach. If you decide to take the fender off tape bought sides of the crack with the door to help insure against a chip.
Thanks for the tips. The broken wire has a spade terminal connector on it. Both male and female ends are there, indicating that the terminal broke off at the blower? I'll check with a small mirror to see if I can tell where it broke off from. Could't see it last night without a mirror.
You may be in luck. Crimp the needed spade, probably a female, on the power wire making sure you have enough slack to get to the blower. There is likely a female left on the male spade attached to the blower motor which you can remove. With a dental type mirror and a pair of locking surgical scissors slide the new terminal on the motor. Of course the motor must be good for this to work.
Since the wire has both female AND male spade attached to it, I'm assuming the male spade broke off the blower. Bummer.
Gee I wonder what the conductivity characteristics are of JB Weld? I am sure you know that because the frame of the blower does not mount to metal a separate ground wire runs from the blower case back out to a lug on the firewall. You may have to change it . Been there. The motors are cheap.
For what it is worth I show the hot wire to be Black/ orange. No chance the lug broke off for the ground to the case of the motor?
Yes, I can see the ground wire that goes to the firewall. I see the blower is <$20, but... my... the labor... It's time to fire-up the garage heater and pull the fender I'm afraid. At least I've got 2 months+ before the snow is gone. If I can see the remains of the male spade on the blower, maybe I can sneak a soldering iron in there and try re-attaching the wire. Might need a few more elbow joints in my arm though to get in there.... Thank you for your help, I really appreciate that.
It could be black/orange. In the semi-lightness of my flashlight last night it looked black/yellow. It's definitely not the ground wire though, it's the hot.
Steve It has been so long that my memory is not perfect but the ground side may have a lug attached to the motor case while the plus side may have had a jumper wire with a spade on it. If so the wire will be dangling under there in the darkness sans spade. Maybe there is enough to get another spade or wire nut on. It is tight quarters within which to work.
Thanks for that tip Jim. I'll check with a mirror-on-a-stick tonight. I'm *really* hoping there's dangling wire there I can attach to.
Well, I got around to replacing the blower motor this weekend. I was able to remove the pass side inner fendor without removing the outer fender! What a relief. I raised the right front of car and removed the tire and had plenty of room to easitly remove and replace the blower motor. Took only 15 minutes to remove the inner fender, and onother 5 minutes to replace the blower motor. A pleasant surprise! The old blower's male connector tab (electrical) was broken off, so no chance of fixing it without removal. Also turns out that the old blower was really *stiff*, would barely turn. New one was only $18.:grin:
