I realize bodyfiller isn't made for huge areas but rather as a filler..... I' was and still am straped for cash when I fixed my rear quarters and there's a lot of filler back there.. My question is, is there anything that can be sprayed/rubbed over bodyfiller that will harden, yet still be smoothed and painted????? I' feel very confident that the backside of quarters is protected. I coated inside of quarters with POR15 to fill in any pinholes that might let moisture in.. But id feel better if I could spray outside with something...Oh well, STILL LEARNING....
There is no limit on the size of a body filler area. Looking at the pic, I would block the filler that is there with 180, Primer and block, and apply what appears to be polyester putty on your deck lid to any remaining low spots. Polyester adhears well to paints and primers, as the lable should indicate. Then prime and block again with 400
like he said, primer and block sand, and lots of it. By the way where is the v8buick on your back window?
Never Fear, V8Buick is here Never fear, It was done after this pic... After carfull consideration and minutes of planning, I felt the rear window was a Perfect Media for a Quick PLUG!!!!!! GO V8Buick.com
You are likely going to need some serious filling primer. I think you may be in need of a polyester primer (sprayable filler). It will act as a "skim coat" as I discribe in the "Basics of Basics" to plastic filler (linked at the bottom of the page). The most common mistakes made by the newbe working with plastic filler. 1. They don't give the dent the respect it deserves. What I mean by that is the newbe will usually not look at the dent as big as it is. Not in depth, but in area. The newbe will not see that the impacts effects on the metal don't end right at the impact. There is usually a brow that lurks out away from the direct impact. First off, in the metal working stage, that brow (or many) can be holding down a low spot. This brow may be very subtle. You have to "give the dent the respect" by stripping the paint out past where you think the dent ends. This way you KNOW you are going to be spreading the filler out far enough to cover it. Going out "too far" especially with the final skim coat is not going to hurt a darn thing. That filler out here can be sanded down paper thin and won't hurt a thing. 2. Be sure the filler goes OVER the deep scratches in the metal. And for Gods sake, be sure the surrounding paint is feathered out with 120 or 180 and there are NO coarser scratches left in it. This can cause all kinds of problems as you final block out your filler and find that you "can't stop" because of them. You sand more trying to fix these scratches in the metal or the paint and ruin your blocking you did on the filler. 3. They will put the filler on to thick, and sand it with too fine of paper. Applying the filler really thick (I do this my self on the first coat to KNOW I am filling what I need) is fine, but you BETTER be using some COARSE paper to CUT it flat. If you apply too much and then "polish" it with finer paper you are never going to get it flat. Try thinner coats applied with more pressure on the speader so press out air bubbles and press the filler into any nooks and crannies. 4. And without a doubt one of the biggest mistakes made is sanding too much filler. I can look at body work most of the time and tell you if it is smooth or not, without touching it, no kidding. If there are shiny spots in the metal in the middle of the filler or on the edges, this is a dead give a way of sanding too much. The feather edge of the filler should look literally transparent. Also, if there are different colors of filler (a little different amount of hardener with each batch changes the color) I can almost guarantee that it will not be smooth. The different applications of filler here and there trying to fix things sand different because of a number of different reasons. This means you could have some filler that is not fully cured on top of some that is. When you sand this new filler and your block runs out onto the surrounding fully cured filler, one is going to sand different than than the other. How can you get them even if one is sanding at a different rate than the other with the same stroke of the sand paper? If you rough out the work as described in the "Basics"* and then apply a THIN skim coat of filler over the whole thing, you are WAY, WAY better off. You sand the whole thing down at once and when you see that transparent edge you STOP. You will need to feel the panel, but when you see that transparent edge, you are VERY close and need to really pay attention because just a few strokes of the paper and you have shiny metal. This is how I have put into words how you sand the whole area at once bringing down this skim coat. Picture you have a large mound of dirt in your front yard, from fence to driveway and out to the side walk is this gental mound about ten inches higher in the middle than at the edges. You want to remove it, but without your neighbors knowing. You shave the whole thing at once every night in the dark, paying a little tiny bit more attention to the center, thicker dirt. You do this everynight, a little at a time until the whole thing is gone. Sounds goofy, but that is something I thought of while sanding filler one day. Anyway, practice on some test panels and strip the paint out real far so when you feel the filler you are not hitting the feather edge of the paint. Look for that transparent edge. Brian * Click here for the "Basics of Basics" on fillers. http://www.autobodystore.com/ms21.htm --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
