Broken valve cover bolt

Discussion in 'Wrenchin' Secrets' started by gwmaddhattergp, Feb 15, 2006.

  1. gwmaddhattergp

    gwmaddhattergp Active Member

    Hey all-
    I have a 2001 Focus as my daily driver and through some stupidity I've snapped one of the valve cover bolts. Its sticking out just a little bit and is an odd shape (twisted) so the ol' tap and hammer trick isnt working. The heads aluminum so I figure Id better stop banging on it before I break something :blast:
    Anyone know what to do? I dont have access to a welder and there isnt enough meat on it to weld a nut to anyway. Heat? drill it out? Some kind of magic? What would you do?

    Thanks in advance!
     
  2. rex362

    rex362 paint clear and drive

    if its easy access....start drilling ..take your time...and start with small size...or possibly and easy out..
     
  3. gwmaddhattergp

    gwmaddhattergp Active Member

    Thanks for the fast reply! Looks like thats the only way, Itll have to wait until this weekend because of lack of time/ sunlight.
     
  4. rex362

    rex362 paint clear and drive

    or ...I'm not sure on how the focus valve covers and heads look...but if there is some kind of lip on the heads ..... :Do No: you can maybe clamp it down with some small clamp....if your leaking oil....


    and I have also once drilled a new hole near the broken one and threded it..but that was while engine was out...
     
  5. Truzi

    Truzi Perpetual Student

    Is there enough to get vice-grips on it? Or can you file a slot, and try a screwdriver?
     
  6. doc

    doc Well-Known Member

    bolt

    I have in the past cut a slot in the bolt with a dremel tool and then used a screw driver to back the bolt out . use pb blaster with this method.
     
  7. gwmaddhattergp

    gwmaddhattergp Active Member

    Thanks for the help! Yeah, the slot might just work of I can get in there without destroying the surrounding area. There really isnt much sticking out... This weekend my dad and uncle are helping, hopefully something will work. Thanks!
    :beer
     
  8. 10sec 455

    10sec 455 Well-Known Member

    Find someone with a tig welder. If the stud is say 1/4" weld a 5/16" or even 3/8"nut on it and it will come right out. You dont need any of the stud to be sticking out, I do it quite often. No mess, no grinding, simple and worth finding the guy with the tig. The less of the stud sticking ouy the larger nut you will have to use. Where in CT are you, I am in CT?
     
  9. kenbuick

    kenbuick Well-Known Member

    Reverse Rotation Drill Bits (Machine Shop Secret)

    Paul,

    My family owns a machine shop and we take out broken bolts all of the time.
    I would but a set of reverse rotation drill bits (to drill a hole, you must run your drill in reverse). I know that Snap-On makes a set and I believe some auto parts stores carry other brands.

    How they work, is that the reverse rotation drill bit turns in the same direction you would turn the valve cover bolt to loosen it. When the drill "catches" it will reverse the bolt out of the hole as if you are loosening the bolt. Nothing else is needed. With a normal drill bit, the drill is turning (forward) the same direction as you tighten the bolt, so the broken bolt stays in the hole and has to be removed with an easy out. Sometimes when you drill with a normal rotation drill bit, the bit "catches' and pushes the broken bolt further in the hole, which is something you do not want to happen in a blind hole such as on your cylinder head.

    Before you drill with the reverse rotation drill, I would apply a very small amount of heat to the head (which I am assuming is aluminum) which should help in removing the broken bolt.

    Try it. I have used this to remove broken valve cover bolts and I believe it will work the best. If the valve cover is off of the engine, you will definately want to use a magnet nearby to catch the drill shavings so they do not go into the engine, go through the oiling system and cause damage.

    Hope this helps.

    Ken
     
  10. 10sec 455

    10sec 455 Well-Known Member

    Your right, left hand drill work great for things like this, but not when the head is on the car. You will get metal chips everywhere. Tig weld it ,no mess.
     
  11. kenbuick

    kenbuick Well-Known Member

    Why I suggested left hand drill.

    Jeff,

    I appreciate your input. The reason that I suggested Paul use a left hand drill is:

    1. Most people working out of their garage do not have access to a mig or tig welder.

    2. You can keep shavings out of the engine if you cover everything and you stop drilling every 2-3 seconds and remove shavings with a magnet, and wipe the rest with a clean rag. I have successfully done this and never got any shavings into the motor.

    3. You have to be careful welding under the hood of some of these newer cars. There are too many things that could catch on fire. Better to err on the side of safety.

    Hope this clarifies the reason for my suggestion.

    Ken
     
  12. 10sec 455

    10sec 455 Well-Known Member

    Paul,
    Best of luck
     
  13. gwmaddhattergp

    gwmaddhattergp Active Member

    The reverse drill method seems to be the best bet right now, the problem is finding one thats small enough. Ill check Sears this afternoon. If not, my uncle has a welder, just have to persuade him to let me borrow it. Either way seems like it will be fine if I take my time. Ill post with the results later this weekend.

    Thanks guys! :TU:

    Oh, and Im located along the shore- Stratford to be exact.
     

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