Discussion in 'Drag'n Wagons' started by superbuickguy, May 21, 2017.
be sure rust doesn't come through
call it 80% welded
filling lots of holes
that one done
my goal is finish the bodywork on this before the Corvette comes back
a step last night
something you might find interesting.
This is the rear gate before I put rust converter on it.
note just a little visible rust
the black areas are where the rust really was
Wow! You wouldn't think there was that much there
and that's epoxy primer, it's supposed to be able to protect against it.....
Tanks (inc) for the memories
it isn't exactly the same, but close
the fill is different, and it's taller. Most EFI pumps require 7" of clearance to work, the stock tank has 5 3/4 inches.... there is plenty of room over the top, but also this one is not the Buick one... sharp eyes will notice the difference.... the fill is different. Same location, but different....
and if that initial pun didn't get you, you'll have to roll with it (my motor for my bead roller finally arrived)
I've found that reliability has been problematic with the bead roller. Specifically, my wife doesn't want to reliably come help
when I was trying to find a body shop to paint my Corvette - I learned that shops are far more likely to take the project on if it runs. Makes perfect sense, but never really thought about it. With that bit-o-learnin' I also realized I'm a fuel system away from the Buick being mobile. The biggest missing part was the fuel tank - efi systems require a tank that is deeper then 6 7/8 inches to have an in-tank pump... stock tanks are 6" deep. Fortunately Tanks makes a tank for wagons that is deeper and has baffles for a fuel pump.... just not for Buicks, I chanced it.
I went with a pump large enough for 1000 hp
these things are an utter pain - but I have practice so it should work fine... I hope
painted and cleaned all the stock supports
in other stuff, I put the bumper on to be sure my coves are correct
as a side note, I put the bead roller together it will be used very soon
also reset my shop, soon I'll need to keep 3 cars in here
a lot of work, and I'm adding to it - but given the goals; having a strong frame is indispensible
but first.... paint some drums
I need to either offset the cross member 10" rearward or come up with another solution
I did consider it but it's not the right way - and worse, doing it a better way costs not much at all
plate the frame
use some 1 1/2 x 3 3/16 wall tube for an inner rail
inner frame with the plate behind it. I'll likely connect the two in a couple spots just for S & Gs
need to buy more rectangle tube, but continued tomorrow
so was going to buy more steel today... nope, not available from my normal supplier .. wonder where I got it?
tacked on the front, just sitting on the rear - the car needs to be on its wheels before I weld this in place
I cut the cross member down and reinstalled it (just sitting there for the moment)
silver.... it hides many sins and it looks good with many, many colors
I put MP&C's advice into practice
might as well weld the braces in while it's apart
I only had to cut 4 bolts... those should be fun to fix
I do have to drill the holes, but it's so much easier when the plates are tacked in place
though this kept distracting me
the difference between a 64 and all the rest of the generation's frames
time to straighten this a bit
sorry for the lack of updates. This came back early and it's so close to getting a 'driveable' stamp that I'm going focus on it. Never fear, Buick content returns soon.
every car is better then the last.... so this should give you an idea of my plans for the Buicks
and now in the wet sand/buffing process