Buinicorn my 1964 wagon

Discussion in 'Drag'n Wagons' started by superbuickguy, May 21, 2017.

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  1. superbuickguy

    superbuickguy Well-Known Member

    I kind of figured the wide wheels wouldn't work.... need less offset
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    a fix for the zerk fittings... 90*
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    this center link... what a pain it's been (and the wrong one, I believe)
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    front suspension
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    need to look at old pictures... I can't remember if the steering arms pointed in or out... but that was after I had to redrill them for larger bolts
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    assembled - didn't even kill myself with the spring compressor
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    both sides
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    wasted effort.... manual steering arm is different then power
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    a-body v. g-body arm.... the PS a-body arm has a 1 1/8" hole rather then 1 1/16"...
    ah well, new they're 40 bucks so it could be worse
     
    Nailhead Ronnie likes this.
  2. superbuickguy

    superbuickguy Well-Known Member

    install brakes
    grease
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    sporty
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    fun of getting bolts off
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    but I have a solution, plus heat....
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    nope, 4 door rear doors are not the same.
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    bright side is the metal will work well to fix the quarter panel
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  3. 300sbb_overkill

    300sbb_overkill WWG1WGA. MAGA

    Yeah, now that I see a pic of your car on the side I can see where the door is different than a regular 4 door car but it looks like the difference is up higher in the window area, not so much lower down?

    QP should be the same from the body line just above the door handle down to the bottom I would think anyway. They didn't like making to much different tooling for cars with the same name even back then if they didn't have to.
     
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  4. superbuickguy

    superbuickguy Well-Known Member

    I suspect the front door is the same as a 4 door - I bought the front door and picked up the rear door because it was there, it's an open question whether or not it's better then the door that was on the car. The issue is the car got side swiped and they repaired it with hole drilling and bondo.... fender is saveable, front door I could save it, rear door - I'm going to have the body wet-blasted so I'll be fixing it right....

    I like odd cars and this is simply part of the joy, truth is I like metal work so this is kind of my happy place.
     
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  5. superbuickguy

    superbuickguy Well-Known Member

    I'm surprised what I did tonight I don't have to re-do, but sometimes I get lucky

    I got my new steering arm
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    only one itty-bitty problem... the hole is too small
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    fortunately I have a reamer so with a bit of work, it fits.
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    however, a new issue. There's a pointy bit on the cross member that makes putting this together an utter pain
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    chop chop
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    and remarkably, everything clears.... it sure doesn't look like it will but it does
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    though with these wheels, it touches the sway bar
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    I'm so glad I have this bit - it gave me the opportunity to compare....
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    onto the steering
    I may eventually put a borgeson joint in here, but for now, I'm going to chop the shafts apart then weld in the collapsable section
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    In other news, I'm going to make this drive sooner then later. To that vein, while I'm building the turbo motor, I'm putting my 455 from the last Skylark in it. I already have headers and the power steering works with this box. I need to fix the low oil pressure issue, but that's simple enough I don't remember if I put a high volume pump in there, but I do know the tricks to give it more pressure for zero dollars and zero cents... which will make this mobile
     
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  6. Nailhead Ronnie

    Nailhead Ronnie Life's 2 Short. Live like it.

    What's that blue stuff you used with the reamer?
     
  7. superbuickguy

    superbuickguy Well-Known Member

    there are a lot of internal parts - such as inner fenders, floorboards and such which interchange with the Chevelle, but externally, I've never found anything that's close enough - not saying there isn't stuff, but I've no experience which suggests there is

    AMD - they provided the quarters for my 70 Buick. I continue to be impressed with them
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    I don't need more then about 30% however, $80 and $130 all in with shipping.... thank you chevrolet
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    and brake lines too
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    I built lines for a Corvette (very custom) - these lines are cheaper (when you include fittings and spring covering) then the material cost for the Corvette
     
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  8. superbuickguy

    superbuickguy Well-Known Member

    machinist dye. I use it to mark the depth of the hole on the original part, then I don't go too far when reaming the new parts.
     
  9. superbuickguy

    superbuickguy Well-Known Member

    installation of brake lines
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    and got stopped
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    I knew this, but the arm I ordered isn't the right one - so it's ordered now and the rest (master and booster) are on their way
    and there's plenty left to do while waiting
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  10. superbuickguy

    superbuickguy Well-Known Member

    I got the parts, so tomorrow the puzzle should be complete and I'll have brakes.
    https://pbase.com/nufsed/image/49448866

    I also verified that I have a 'spare' turbo350 trans from my other Skylark - I may use it just to make this move. it's going to be a choice either make the turbo motor run on a MS3x or simply slap a carb on a 455.... both have benefits and down sides.... but since I know the 200r4 is a $3000 rebuild cost, dividing the spend is a good thing....

    and I'm probably just going to send my liquid cooled visa and my 200r4 to Art Carr... but dividing the wallet pain for after I get this painted and mobile is a good thing.
     
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  11. superbuickguy

    superbuickguy Well-Known Member

    got some stuff progressed

    steering
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    I bought a knock-off borgeson joint and then cut the ends off the collapsable portion of the quick ratio box
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    I cut the steering shaft long, then flattened two sides so it'd slip together
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    and welded it to the column shaft
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    then brakes
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    what a pain to get to this point
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    screwed the brake lines in
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    finally found the correct arm... and only the left is readily available... so waiting again for the other side
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    the front is nearly done.... tighten a few more bolts, all the cotter keys in place
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    rear isn't that far but now I wait for something to get here from PA.
    I certainly have plenty of other things to do and now if I need, I can roll it out
     
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  12. superbuickguy

    superbuickguy Well-Known Member

    everything tightened up
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    prying this off.... roofing tar.... love it
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    put new suspension bolts in
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    it looks exactly like it did before....
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    I'm waiting for a couple parts - one of which won't be here until Monday... so my goal for the rest of this week is get the brake lines done on the C3, bolt the body on, then see if I can make it run.... it would be a big help if I could move both of the projects around by simply turning a key....
     
  13. superbuickguy

    superbuickguy Well-Known Member

    close, got the body on the Corvette, now to do everything else.... ugh. Ah well, I'm still weighing the 455 v. 231 debate..... I want a 231 but the 455 is closer to making this a runner.... feel free to weigh in. Part of the 'deal' is I may farm out the body work after I do the major metal work - so making it a runner makes it easier to find a good bodyshop and costs less in the end....

    also keep in the back of that decision process is I have a 900 or so hp twin turbo 455 (now 430) that is probably the closest in dollars to being done (and yes, I spent a LOT on it but - it's a Buick... I think at least here I won't get grief)....
     
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  14. superbuickguy

    superbuickguy Well-Known Member

    time to keep taking parts off... door panels
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    patterns for the new door panels
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    and very rusty heater box
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    I will get the mouse smell out
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  15. superbuickguy

    superbuickguy Well-Known Member

    The point of this post is to be a reference to anyone doing #91/2#drum#brakes
    the hardest part is these three bits....
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    this is what it will look like installed - note the drum brake connector is there as well
    also silver goes with silver - the silver adjuster goes with the silver adjustment rod
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    Installed... which is what most other posts have.... which makes it nearly impossible to see how each spring connects and routes
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    the right side
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    you can just see the adjuster that goes from the cable to the shoe on the left (longer) shoe
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    I didn't get the right side on because one pin came up missing.... ugh
     
  16. superbuickguy

    superbuickguy Well-Known Member

    and the brake lines leak... I suppose I should have tightened them up before I put brake fluid in....
    ah well, only real problem is the Corvette is on the lift - so it'll leak until Sunday when I can swap its place with the C3

    in other news.... in this box

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    is this part....
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    and this is now on the car....
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  17. BennyK81

    BennyK81 Well-Known Member

    Just stumbled across this thread Wondering why almost noone responds.

    You did a lot of writing.

    I gotta say I love your place :)

    Why didn't you take the body off the frame when you have so much space?

    I watch this thread now
     
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  18. 64 skylark mike

    64 skylark mike Well-Known Member

    Haven't posted, but I always open this thread any time it shows up! Been very interesting reading, keep up the good work, and thanks for posting your progress.
     
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  19. superbuickguy

    superbuickguy Well-Known Member

    time to start cleaning up the motor
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    what a mess
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    and split apart.... I wonder if orange was the GM color....
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    new bolts and bolting it to the stand
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    Super clean, awesome, purple whatever - useless
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    I'll know soon enough, but I'm still certain the bottom end is fine and the top is seized
     
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  20. superbuickguy

    superbuickguy Well-Known Member

    mostly because I'm in the midst of a body-off-frame C3 build... who knows, though, I may yet split the body... with that said, the rust needs to be fixed first before splitting, especially the rear floor...
    the c3
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