Cam choice please. (Another thread)

Discussion in 'Street/strip 400/430/455' started by B-rock, Jul 13, 2018.

  1. B-rock

    B-rock Well-Known Member

    8.5 compression 71 455 in 65 skylark. 350 rear gears. T400 1800 rpm stall. I have aluminum intake. HEI. 800cfm quadrajet. And 27” tall rear tires. Motor internally is all stock except for a double roller timming chain. Oil pressure about 35 at idle. And 60 at 2000 rpm.

    I’ll be ordering up a set of stage 2 TA aluminum heads headers and cam at the same time.

    TA recomiendes 2 cams,



    I’m not skilled enough to pick out a proper cam. Any help would really be appreciated. This is a hard driven car that sees the strip and the curves. It’s my summer driving car.

    Also interested in matching a torque converter to this.
    Last edited: Jul 13, 2018
  2. B-rock

    B-rock Well-Known Member

    Forgot to add the cam recommendations.
  3. SlowSabre

    SlowSabre Member

    If you're going to go stage 2 and change the converter, I would consider the 310. Narrow lobe separation angle and fast ramps will work with your (lack of) compression. Single pattern works with stage 2 heads. Will require a small converter.
  4. B-rock

    B-rock Well-Known Member

    Ack. A 3rd choice in the mix now. Everyone I talk to has there own opinion of the best cam. And no 2 are alike.
  5. shiftbyear

    shiftbyear Well-Known Member

    B-rock likes this.
  6. B-rock

    B-rock Well-Known Member

    Wow. That’s a great website for a cam choice thank you!!
  7. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD"

    B-rock likes this.
  8. B-rock

    B-rock Well-Known Member

    Thank you for that link. Again a ton of info. TA told me the use of the aluminum head will bring me up close to 9/1. My plan once I rebuild the bottom end of this engine in a few years is to have a static CR of 10/1. This will probably mean a new cam again. And I’m ok with that if it nessesary.
  9. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD"

    When I bought my TA Stage1SE heads back in 2006, Greg Gessler did the porting, and he milled them .040. That brought my chambers to 59cc and my static compression to 10.4:1. Additional porting in 2012 brought my chambers to 61cc. My current engine built in 2012 uses 0 deck pistons with 31cc dish/valve notches for a static compression of 10.53:1. Have the TA heads milled so you can run more compression. Later, when you build the bottom end, you can customize a zero deck piston to tailor your static compression to what you need.

    Read this before building your bottom end,

    Custom pistons are more affordable than ever,
    john.schaefer77 likes this.
  10. B-rock

    B-rock Well-Known Member

    That's another question I had ( so many questions right)
    if I mill the Heads now to raise my CR. Will it Be a negative once I build the bottom end ? It does not sound like it will be an issue. This is great news.

    I'm trying to spread out the cost of the build. Buy the heads and headers now. (maybe intake depending on what stage 2 head I use) the 470 I read about is sounding very nice.
  11. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD"

    It wasn't for me. I bought my GS in 1999. An all iron 462 Stage 1, with KB118 cam, and MT headers, it ran a best of 13.22 @ 101 MPH and weighed in around 4100 lbs. When switching to aluminum heads, measurements confirmed my SCR was 9.4:1 with the iron 1970 Stage 1 heads. Greg milled my TA heads .040. That brought my SCR to 10.4:1. With an Edelbrock Performer intake, car went mid 12's at around 108 MPH. Swapped in an SP1 intake and the car went a best of 12.20 @ 110 with the Q-jet, and 12.11 at 112 with an AED 1000 DP carburetor.

    Had Jim Weise build a short block with Diamond Pistons and Eagle rods, and my heads, intake, and 1000 carburetor. (470). Customized the Diamond pistons at 31cc to keep the compression down at 0 deck. Car has gone a best of 11.54 @ 116 at a car weight over 4000 lbs.
  12. B-rock

    B-rock Well-Known Member

    This is all very great news!! Thank you! This is very close to how I plan to build my engine. Ands great 1/4 mike times.
  13. 300sbb_overkill

    300sbb_overkill WWG1WGA. MAGA

    Remember, when building a street/strip car that if you build to go faster than 11.50 QM ET, is when you start needing the extra safety equipment like certified roll bars/cages, certified seated belts and so on.

    You will want to make sure you have the rear control arm braces that tie the upper and lower control arms together to handle the added torque.

    Looks like Larry's car is balanced quite well for a street car so it doesn't need that extra safety stuff, good job Larry! But his car probably has a 10.99 pass in it if he revved it passed 5,500 shifting manually at the track.:eek:
  14. B-rock

    B-rock Well-Known Member

    Thank you. And yes I agree with the safety. However I’m not looking to build a race car. I want a street car. 99.9%of driving is on the street anyways so I’m also building a bit of pro touring into all this. Multi function car. But not excellent at any one thing.

    I have tubular control arms all the way around. And with the added rear brace in the rear. 31spline Ford 9” with adjustable lower control arm bracket. Also 1350 u joints.
    300sbb_overkill likes this.

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