Can someone please explain to me the internal alternator conversion!!!!

Id go for the most amps for your buck, find out what amp they had stock.
see if they got any upgrade ones.

said in other post I use the 108amp upgrade alt from autozone, $60 lifetime warranty. Just had to spin the case, typical. If ya screw it up, take it back for exchange and say nada bout spining the case. Took me 2 tries the first time.
Auto stores use to do it for ya.

 

http://buickthunder.com/FAQ Alternators.doc

 

I REALLY HATE that drawing/schematic. It's posted and re-posted all over the internet; and it does NOT follow GM color codes. Don't get me wrong, it WILL WORK as described, if you place the two jumper wires just as they've shown. Yes, it really is that easy--connect the output cable to the alternator output, and plug in two wires to the alternator's internal regulator, and two jumper wires to the old external regulator connector. E-A-S-Y.

BUT--the wire colors at the alternator are reversed, which harms nothing but looks stupid as all get-out and makes troubleshooting for the next owner or a repair shop something of an additional challenge.

I drew my own schematic; the color codes are preserved but note that the jumper wires are moved so they plug into different cavities in the molded plastic connector that you've unplugged from the old and un-used external regulator. Still just as easy; but it "looks" correct at the alternator.




As as side issue, this works with either the 10-SI or the 12-SI alternator; if you use an 86-to-95 (well, middle '90's, anyway--I forget the final year of production) CS-130 alternator, the wiring is very different and all I can say is "Good luck with that rear bearing..." as it's a well-known and hatefully common failure point. There was a total re-design of the CS-130 at some point in the mid-'90's; the newer ones seem to be reliable.

 

I did it to my car and it worked fine. I heard that if the engine won't shut down to reverse the two wires in the plug at the alternator. Mine worked out of the box.

 

Thanks for that clarification, Schurkey. I'm saving your diagram as I like it better too.

Devon

 

The whole reason I went to the trouble to make this diagram was--I had the two wires at the alternator reversed.

This was a fresh external-to-internal regulator conversion on a '66 Toronado. Within a few minutes of running, smoke poured out of the alternator like it was on fire.

I had used the first schematic drawing posted (I think that MAD Electrical is the origin: http://www.madelectrical.com/ ) to arrange the jumper wires, but stupidly connected the wires at the alternator just as they had been on the old alternator.

Once I shut off the engine, verified that there was no on-going fire, and dug out the Delco service manual, I discovered the color-code (wires reversed) problem with MAD Electrical's schematic.

Did my alternator fry because the wires were reversed? I can't say for sure. PERHAPS it was just a defective rebuild; and it would have fried no matter what. In truth, I think the alternator got a lower-than-accurate voltage at the #2 terminal, because that voltage wasn't being supplied by the correct wire and so the alternator did it's best to boost system voltage by operating "wide open" and in so doing, it overheated and cooked.

Swapping wires willy-nilly is therefore not recommended. Use the MAD Electrical schematic; or use MY schematic; but don't do half-and-half.

You're welcome. I appreciate the feedback.

 

so i dont have to worry about the junctioning of the wires around the horn relay. but rather swap the alternator jump the wires and be done. Similar to devons previous post?

 

Guys i sell the harness for this conversion $20 shipped:TU:

 

so i took out the regulator, wired it up jumping the wires. I thne bought a 12si alt and put it in ran the cable from the batt to tbe back of the alt and now the voltage looks as if its charging but when i let it run it seems that the alternator gets kinda hot?? never notice this before.

and after a few times of cranking the engine, it stops turning over or does really slooooow.

I did the chargning test and pulled the cable off while the car was running and it stayed on!! YAY!!

but after a while like i said it stops turning. what is going on now...!!

 

NEVER,EVER, pull the cable off while it's running,by doing that the current has no connecting path & you have transient voltage,like 20+ volts depending on rpm.You can damage the alt,blow fuses,light bulbs,etc.
The alternator will get hot,but if it's too hot to touch & your cranking slow,i would get the battery tested.

 

i did have the battery tested at kragens and it checked out fine, it was just low on the CCA's and needed to be charged. im think of just giving in and buying a red top optima battery this coming weekend.

thoughts? any other suggestions?

i really do appreciate everyones input and help with my problem! thanks guys.

 

...

 

You cant properly test a battery unless it's fully charged.Do you have a known good battery in another vehicle to toss in & try?

 

unfortunately the batteries i have in other cars have side posts only. So youre saying that the battery i had "tested" could have actually been bad.

 

Yea you can't test them until fully charged.
could ask them to charge then test it, AZ did that for me.

But reguardless if you can afford to drop money on a good battery like that, its always a good idea. Like putting on new tires before their time maybe, still makes me feel safe n fuzzy about it.

 

Best way to test the alternator is with a voltmeter at the battery. Voltage with engine off should be 12.something, voltage with the engine running should be 13.something. If it doesn't go up when the engine is running, it's a safe bet that the alternator isn't working right.

PS: Who do we talk to about getting this thread made into a sticky?

 

I tested the battery when off it is at 12. when running now its between 13.5-14 which is good. goes as high as 15-16 when reving the engine.

but still it seems the battery isnt holding the charge because after a while it will stop cranking and just click.

i dont know about the sticky.

 

you on ebay?

 

Yep...need $$$ for '65 restop

 

I would just go ahead and get a new battery.

Oh and to help you later, when ever you buy a battery for any car you own. Always say you want a dual post. Posts on the top and sides. That way it will work in anything. Doens't cost much if any more.

Though if you still want to just test for under $5 you can buy adapters to run a side mount batter in a top post car and vise versa.