Car dies while at low rpm

Discussion in 'Street/strip 400/430/455' started by 1969RIVI, Jul 7, 2018.

  1. 1969RIVI

    1969RIVI Well-Known Member

    It was on the car when I bought it. I read somewhere when you order one from them you give them your engine specs and they set it up before they ship it to you. I was thinking of calling them and trying to see if they could give me an idea on how they would've set it up based on the info I do know about the engine. I know the cam is pretty big but the specs I'm not a 100% on.
     
  2. buick64203

    buick64203 Right wing conservative Staff Member

    Probably wouldn't be a bad idea to upgrade your timing light to one with an advance knob. That way you can rev the engine and find out what advance is in the distributor. Either way, 18-20 degrees of initial advance is off the charts too high. How does the car start when its hot set up like that?
     
  3. 1969RIVI

    1969RIVI Well-Known Member

    Yeh I was going get a better one this one was just a cheap one I grabbed in a pinch it's all they had in stock. The car actually starts really easy when it's hot! I was combating some overheating issues last season but I got them under control now but I'm sure it being over advanced is not helping it any and it will probably run even cooler once I dial back a bit. Since I don't have a dial back timing light I was going to put a 30* mark on the balancer at 1.75" from the original to see where my advance is all in and at what rpm.
     
  4. 1969RIVI

    1969RIVI Well-Known Member

    So a big thank you goes out to Larry the wizard because of his help and guidance I was able to get my timing figured out and reset. I have my initial at 12* my mechanical at 32* and with the vac advance plugged in it's all in at 46*. I think I'm describing that properly.....I hope o_Oo_O As for my stalling issues I determined my pressure regulator is toast and my "new" liquid filled gauge is only half full and not reading properly. So I already got a new holley regulator and I'm exchanging my gauge tomorrow. That being said the motor is being starved of fuel, running lean and stalling out. Thank you everybody for the tips tricks and help I'll report back once the new parts are installed!
     
    Harlockssx likes this.
  5. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD"

    Probably 10* initial, 22* mechanical at 3000 RPM, 14* vacuum advance. WOT, 32*, cruise timing 46*.
     
  6. Stevem

    Stevem Well-Known Member

    Common ball park GM 4bbl timing set up from late 60s to mid 70s.
     

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  7. BuickV8Mike

    BuickV8Mike SD Buick Fan

    Your gage my be fine. The fluid is to "dampen" the needle only and not really to influence readings.
     
  8. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD"

    Heat affects any gauge I have seen in the engine compartment, it changes the reading. I have an electrical Autometer fuel pressure gauge. It works great, but it is expensive, the sender alone is 100.00.

    FuelPressGaugeR.jpg FuelPressSenderR.jpg

    https://www.jegs.com/i/Auto-Meter/105/3361/10002/-1
     
    Harlockssx likes this.
  9. HotRodRivi

    HotRodRivi Tomahawks sighted overseas

    Make sure you cap the carb not the advance when checking. I dont actually pull the advance when checking mine. But if your idel is 700 to 900 pulling the vacume line wont do much unless the throttle blades are past the port vacume slot in the base plate. If you have no choke your top butterfly will flop all over the place. Sure it will open with with the inrush of air when you step on it . But come to a stop hit the brake and its floppin closed and open . If you have no choke, get one . Floppy flaps will never run rite.
     
  10. HotRodRivi

    HotRodRivi Tomahawks sighted overseas

    Larry, your fuel psi is higher than your oil psi!!!
     
  11. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD"

    The engine is off Anson:) The fuel pressure gauge is like the Autometer's electrical gauges and tachometers. When you shut the engine down, the needle can stop in random places, usually the low numbers. When I switch the ignition on, they zero out, then read when the engine starts.

    From the Autometer FAQ section,

    FAQ ANSWER DETAIL

    Why doesn't my tach pointer rest at zero when the ignition is off?

    We get a lot of questions about this. Here is the reason, along with some specifics for each product. Most of the electric instruments that we offer use what is called an air core meter. In layman's terms, this means there is no physical part to hold the pointer where it sits, or to force it back to zero when power is removed. It uses an electrical charge to return to zero when power is applied, and when a signal is fed to the instrument, the pointer will indicate the proper reading. This is normal, and no cause for alarm. The unit is not damaged or broken, it just doesn't look like most other instruments out there. For Example: The pointers, on most modern OE (original equipment) gauges, just hang there when power is removed. We use air core movement due to its rapid response characteristics, so when you stomp on the accelerator, the pointer is capable of showing you exact engine RPM.

    On some other gauges, such as the pyrometers or EGT gauges, sit off zero, too. But, even after you connect them and turn the power on, the pointer still doesn't go back to zero. What gives? Well, provided the gauge is connected to its probe, it will show the ambient air temperature. So, unless it is zero degrees F outside, it will not read zero. For example, if your vehicle has sat for a long period of time (allowing the engine to completely cool) the gauge will accurately reflect the outdoor temperature when power is applied. If the outdoor temperature is 70 degrees, the gauge will read 70 degress.
     
    Last edited: Jul 14, 2018
  12. 1969RIVI

    1969RIVI Well-Known Member

    So I've had the car out a few times this week and had no issues. Then yesterday I filled the tank and was cruising through town and the car wanted to keep stalling on me. I've read tons of info in the net alongvwith your guys thoughts regarding vapour lock and I'm convinced that is my issue. I replaced my old pressure regulator with a new holley 12-803 4.5-9PSI but if I'm goingvto plumb in a return line can I use it still or do I have to go with the holley 12-803BP (bypass) unit? If anyone can give me any tips on how to do this properly and cheaply ( they don't usually go hand in hand) that would be great!
     

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